Product developers are always on the lookout for the latest technologies and next-generation molecules to add to their bag of tricks. Perhaps it’s a new molecule that helps with long-lasting fragrance or a biotechnological process that increases yield and sustainability claims. These processes and technologies are part of the creative problem solving that is crucial for today’s flavor and fragrance industry.
But with new technology, there is always the skeptical consumer. This consumer is wary of having too much science in their products, and words like “synthetic” and “artificial” are thrown around. But it’s up to industry leaders to educate consumers and their partners on the benefits and efficacy of these breakthroughs.
Perfumer & Flavorist+ spoke with Charbel Bouez, senior vice president of global R&D for IFF Scent, about the company’s use of biotechnology and next-gen molecules. He explained that the lines between “natural” and “synthetic” are beginning to blur, and that scientific advancements can help unlock the balance between authenticity and value when it comes to product development.
What types of biotech is IFF employing to create next-gen molecules?
For us, biotechnology is a powerful, creative engine and a catalyst for designing
Charbel Bouez, senior vice president, global R&D, IFF ScentCourtesy of IFF Scent
These three techniques can be used individually or combined, creating a flexible “toolbox” that enables the whole IFF team, including us here at IFF Scent, to explore new molecular frontiers. Biotechnology is chosen not only for its sustainability, but also for its superb precision – nature’s way of making only the modifications that are needed. Supported by AI to identify the most promising routes, our researchers are reimagining what’s possible in fragrance, flavor and beyond. By uniting biology, chemistry and digital innovation, we hope to set the stage for a new era of molecule design that blends the authenticity of naturals with the performance of synthetics.
To what extent have the traditional labels of ‘natural’ versus ‘synthetic’ become inadequate or even misleading in describing today's advanced molecules?
The old divide between “natural” and “synthetic” does not fully reflect the reality of modern molecule creation. At IFF, while we continue to reinforce our leadership in Naturals, we allow science to travel between these categories – a single innovation may begin in nature and evolve through synthetic or biotechnological refinement.
Both paths provide vital avenues for progress, from a scientific standpoint and a regulatory one. As biotechnologies advance, defining what’s truly “natural” is becoming increasingly complex, demanding new clarity from regulators and new understanding across the industry. IFF is helping reframe this conversation. We see it as our responsibility, and privilege, to educate partners and consumers to look beyond the natural/synthetic binary.
How are your teams addressing the challenge of providing both authenticity (e.g., bio-identical or natural sourcing) and value (cost-efficiency) simultaneously?
Balancing authenticity, performance and value has long been one of the fragrance industry’s biggest challenges – and one we’re tackling by “crossing the streams” of natural, synthetic and biotech innovation. Through our brand LMR Naturals, we can tap into decades of expertise exploring every stage of an ingredient’s life cycle to drive sustainability and safety from plant to product. The journey can start and end here, or alternatively, we can take inspiration from natural molecular structures and use advanced AI to identify alternative biotech-enabled production routes that improve efficiency, predict cost outcomes, or avoid the access challenges common in 100% natural sourcing. This convergence of disciplines allows IFF to offer the best of all worlds – authentic, high-performing, safe and sustainable molecules produced at a viable scale and value.
Let's talk about the role of AI. How is AI being deployed today to accelerate the discovery and design phase of new molecules? What specific tasks is it best suited for?
Right now, we see the greatest value from AI when it is embedded at the earliest stages of molecule discovery. In our workflows, the algorithms act as an additional scientist, working alongside our chemists, biotechnologists and agronomists to accelerate innovation by simulating countless potential pathways before a single experiment begins. There is also a lot of value to be found at the refinement stage of molecule development. For example, when a researcher faces the question, “How do I make this molecule better?” AI provides data-driven answers that help our teams identify the routes most likely to succeed faster and more efficiently.
Chemists, scientists and perfumers will continue leveraging AI to refine performance, sustainability and cost efficiency in real time as the technology progresses. This constant feedback loop transforms discovery from a linear process into a conversation between human expertise and AI efficiency. The result is true dynamism; more targeted innovation, performed quicker and with the ability to explore molecular spaces that were once out of reach. I believe this is how we will uncover the next generation of fragrance ingredients for scent creation.
AI can help at both the earliest stages of molecule discovery and the refinement stage. A2Z AI at Adobe Stock
How do you maintain the balance of faster product development with keeping high quality?
IFF maintains the balance between speed and quality through a tightly coordinated innovation pipeline designed to scale discovery responsibly. We employ dedicated early development and process R&D teams, each solely focused on their section of the production process but also working in tandem to transform promising molecules into viable, sustainable and cost-efficient ingredients. Their mission is not only to move fast, but to do so without compromising the integrity of the science.
To further accelerate progress, we pursue strategic alliances, opening our doors to leading universities, startups and specialist partners worldwide. By combining internal depth of expertise with external ingenuity, we believe we can solve complex challenges more efficiently while maintaining the rigorous standards of safety, performance and sustainability that define the way we do business. This fusion of collaboration and precision ensures that speed serves innovation, and never at the expense of quality.
Beyond traditional ingredients, what are some exciting future applications in fragrance that these next-gen molecules will unlock?
For me, the next frontier for fragrance lies in understanding how scents interact with human biology. Our research teams are already exploring how specific molecules can influence mood, memory and overall well-being – moving beyond just “it smells good,” toward measurable benefits for emotional and physical health. By combining advances in biotechnology, AI and precision health, we aim to pioneer a new generation of fragrance ingredients designed with purpose, as well as pleasure, in mind. It’s here, I think, that we will see the true value of our converging sciences approach. Our mission at IFF is always to Make Joy, and what better way to express that by unlocking applications that support wellness, cognition and even therapeutic outcomes, as well as simply making us happy.
