The extrait de parfum boom is gathering pace, with prestige fragrance houses turning to more concentrated, high-impact compositions to meet demand for richer scent experiences. The latest entrant is Merit, which has tapped master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin (both of IFF) to create New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum, its second fragrance.
Launched October 22 at $92, New Wave takes a more complex, sensual approach to solar perfumery, moving beyond the conventional beach-inspired profile toward a warm, floral-spicy composition designed to evolve on the skin.
The fragrance was inspired by an afternoon at Paris’ Musée Picasso and the spirit of surrealist art, with the juxtaposition of luminous florals and dark, textured materials intended to create an unexpected interpretation of solar fragrance. The custom glass bottle echoes the fluid movement of a wave, symbolizing transformation and continuous change.Merit
The launch follows a wave of high-profile extrait releases and extensions. In August 2026, Dior expanded its bestselling Sauvage franchise with Sauvage Extrait, created by the house’s perfume creation director Francis Kurkdjian. Built around oud wood, the composition layers smoky, earthy and resinous facets with cedar, patchouli and vetiver for a denser, more intense interpretation of the franchise. Meanwhile, Ex Nihilo has introduced Lust in Paradise Extrait de Parfum, amplifying the original fragrance’s pink pepper, lychee and peony signature with richer florals and a deeper drydown.
The momentum reflects a broader shift toward fragrance formats that emphasize concentration, longevity and olfactory impact. Allure identified higher concentrations and bolder compositions among the trends shaping spring 2026, while Elle has highlighted the continued appeal of extraits and intense fragrances as consumers seek scents that last longer and deliver greater presence.
For Merit, the opportunity is to bring that intensity to a luminous floral profile. New Wave opens with pink pepper and fresh angelica seed, leading into a radiant heart of creamy ylang-ylang, orange flower and a honeyed floral accord. Its base builds a more shadowy counterpoint, combining benzoin, labdanum and olibanum with patchouli heart, cypriol, vetiver, cedarwood heart and oakwood. Ambroxan (a Kao Corp. trade name), ambrarome and musk add depth, while vanilla bean, tonka bean and a tobacco accord round out the warm, sensual finish.
The fragrance was inspired by an afternoon at Paris’ Musée Picasso and the spirit of surrealist art, with the juxtaposition of luminous florals and dark, textured materials intended to create an unexpected interpretation of solar fragrance. The custom glass bottle echoes the fluid movement of a wave, symbolizing transformation and continuous change.
Early consumer interest has been striking: more than 30,000 people signed up to receive a sample in the four days before launch, equivalent to approximately one signup every 12 seconds.
