The Last Word: From Functionality to Mystique—Perfumers on Ingredients

This year, P&F has published a series of dialogues with perfumers, discussing their favorite ingredients, their effects and the ways in which they work with the palette in today’s regulatory and safety environment. One such pair of conversations highlighted the breadth of applications for perfumery and how technical and aesthetic demands shape perfumers’ choices.

“I grew up in India and I love peaches and mangoes, and for me Ringonol 50 [2-(2-mercaptopropan- 2-yl)-5-methylcyclohexanone; CAS# 38462-22-5] really helps to give that tropical note to those fruits,” says Aditi Bhanot, a perfumer with Takasago. “It’s fantastic for bringing pink colors to florals, so even if you have a white floral bouquet and you add a touch of Ringonol 50, the peony almost goes from white to pink. It’s also fantastic in red berries—I love the rose and red berry combination in general. Whenever I’m trying to achieve deep pinks and reds, then I add a bit of Ringonol 50. When you first smell it, it could take you to Bourgogne de cassis, fruits that have sulfur notes.”

Aditi adds, “I would use a touch of it even in men’s fragrances. You just need a very small amount, so you’re not facing stability or discoloration issues when you’re putting it in membranes or more challenging products.”

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