Name: Maya Njie
Title: Perfumer & Founder, Maya Njie Perfumes
Location: London, United Kingdon
Can you share a defining moment or significant breakthrough in your career as a perfumer?
Maya Njie [MN]: A defining moment in my career came in 2019 when my brand launched at Liberty in London. This partnership elevated the visibility of my work and gave me the opportunity to connect with a broader audience. Liberty’s commitment to supporting unique, artisanal brands made this collaboration deeply meaningful, especially as a self-taught perfumer building my brand from the ground up. But while this was a significant milestone, I’m equally proud of the fact that my business, which I started entirely on my own, will be celebrating its tenth year next year. Reflecting on the journey so far, I’m grateful for the resilience and dedication that have carried me through the challenges of running a niche brand. While I have achieved much, I am fully aware that there is always more to learn in this fascinating industry. The fragrance world is endlessly complex and evolving, and I’m excited to continue expanding my knowledge and refining my craft. Every step forward reinforces my commitment to storytelling through scent, and I find joy in every new lesson learned along the way.
What were some of the biggest challenges you faced when entering the perfume industry, and how did you overcome them?
MN: Entering the perfume industry as a self-taught, independent perfumer presented several challenges. Without formal training or a background in chemistry, I had to find alternative ways to learn the craft. Reading books like The Chemistry of Fragrance and online resources such as Basenotes and Fragrantica, but mainly hands-on experimentation to understand the properties and interactions of different ingredients. Sourcing materials was another obstacle; as a small business, it can be difficult to access certain raw materials and purchasing required amounts, and I have to carefully budget to maintain the quality and quantity needed for my products.
Additionally, managing all aspects of production independently is a big job and requires meticulous attention to detail. Over time, as the brand has grown, I have started outsourcing certain elements of production to keep up with demand while still maintaining the artisanal quality that defines my work. Looking back, I’m proud to have built a growing business that will soon mark its tenth year. Every challenge has been a valuable lesson, and I’m enjoying the learning process as I delve deeper into the industry, understanding that there is always more to discover.
What resources (books, courses, mentors) were most valuable to you in your development as a perfumer?
MN: The most valuable resources in my journey as a perfumer have been rooted in hands-on experimentation and self-guided research. Experimenting with ingredients and blending techniques has been essential for developing my style and understanding the nuances of each material. I often purchase samples to evaluate new ingredients, building my own personal library to draw from in my formulations. Online resources have been incredibly useful as well, from articles and forums to niche communities where knowledge is generously shared. Talking with other independent perfumers in the community has provided valuable insights and a sense of camaraderie, as we all learn from each other's experiences. The process has been both solitary and collaborative, allowing me to grow at my own pace while tapping into the broader indie perfumery world. There’s still so much to learn, and I look forward to continuing this exploration with a sense of curiosity and a commitment to evolving as a perfumer.
How do you find the right balance between artistic expression and the technical limitations of perfume formulation?
MN: Balancing artistic expression with the technical limitations of perfumery requires a blend of creativity, knowledge, and adaptability. For me, it begins with a story or memory that I want to bring to life through scent. Once I have a clear vision, I dive into the technical aspects, working within the constraints of available materials and regulatory requirements. These limitations can feel restrictive at times, but I see them as opportunities to push my creativity further. If a particular ingredient doesn’t behave as expected or has regulatory restrictions, I experiment with alternatives that capture a similar essence. This process requires patience and a willingness to adapt, allowing me to maintain the artistic integrity of the fragrance while ensuring it is safe, stable, and wearable. Ultimately, I’m constantly learning how to navigate this balance, and I find it both challenging and rewarding. Embracing the technical side of perfumery has deepened my appreciation for the craft, and I’m excited to continue evolving in this industry, knowing that each fragrance I create is the result of both inspiration and technical considerations.
Are there specific skills or knowledge areas you believe are crucial for a perfumer to master?
MN: Absolutely. A comprehensive understanding of raw materials is needed. Knowing the properties, strengths, and interactions of different ingredients is essential for creating balanced, complex scents. Olfactory memory is another great skill—being able to identify, recall, and describe scents accurately allows a perfumer to make intentional choices in their formulations. Two areas that I am always learning about. Regulatory knowledge is also important, especially for independent perfumers who must ensure that their creations comply with industry standards. Beyond these technical skills, creativity, patience, and adaptability are essential traits. Perfumery is a field that requires experimentation and persistence, as not every formula or idea will work. I also believe that building a library of ingredients and practicing blending techniques over time are invaluable for developing one’s craft. Personally, I recognize that I have much to learn, and I’m embracing this journey wholeheartedly. There is room and time to grow. The perfume industry is complex and ever-evolving, and I am enjoying the process of learning more with each fragrance I create. My aim is to continue evolving as a perfumer by refining my skills and deepening my understanding of this fascinating art form.
