Perfumer Ezra-Lloyd Jackson on Overcoming Challenges and the Importance of Mentorship

Name: Ezra-Lloyd Jackson

Title: Artist, Designer, Independent Perfumer

Company: deya

Location: London, UK

P&F+: What were some of the biggest challenges you faced when entering the perfume industry, and how did you overcome them?

Ezra-Lloyd Jackson [ELJ]: Entering into an industry that was completely outside of my frame of professional and social reference brought on a sense of alienation that was important for me to endure. At times being othered, and at times unintentionally self-othering, I found strength and resilience by developing a high professional standard for myself and those I engage with. There was no way to rush this process; often uncomfortable but stabilizing with practice. 

P&F+: Can you share a defining moment or significant breakthrough in your career as a perfumer?

ELJ: Building my own fragrance laboratory in South London was a bucket-list moment. A fragrance lab never existed in this capacity when I started in the industry, and to have made my own has allowed me space to formalize my own approach to the practice of perfumery and scent design. It's allowed friends, and creative practitioners, from ceramicists to architects, to engage in the space and exchange philosophies. 

P&F+: How do you find the right balance between artistic expression and the technical limitations of perfume formulation?

ELJ: Critically informing my intuition. 

P&F+: Are there specific skills or knowledge areas you believe are crucial for a perfumer to master?

ELJ: Practicing empathy. 

P&F+: What resources (books, courses, mentors) were most valuable to you in your development as a perfumer?

ELJ: I was very lucky to receive close mentorship from Pia Long and Nick Gilbert of Olfiction, with their unrivaled knowledge they really helped me lay a technical foundation for the craft. I continue to receive guidance from Marianne Martin and Maya Njie, who are both incredible practitioners in their own right. Nuri McBride opened my mind to the realities of the trade, and the monopolies of power that exist behind the scenes. Yosh Han gave me an amazing opportunity to create a fragrance for Scent Trunk, called Trackside Buddleia, which really pushed me to establish my own approach and olfactive style. Very grateful for all of them.