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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance

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Profiles in Perfumery: “I’m an Indie”

Mandy Aftel’s “do-it-yourself” philosophy and focus on natural perfumery have resulted in a successful, unconventional fragrance career. Vanity Fair magazine has called her the “Angel of Alchemy,” but what Mandy Aftel, founder of Aftelier Perfumes, does is more simply explained. She makes scents for solid and liquid perfumes, face and body care products, custom perfumes, and more.

Raw Material Bulletin: January 2014

This month's raw material bulletin features 2,3-hexanedione, ginger, 2,6-Dimethoxy phenol natural and more.

Tobacco accords are often used as a warm, rich and slightly sweet base note.

Consumer Preferences Are Redefining Tobacco's Role in Flavor and Fragrance: Q&A with Tobacco Flavorist Manoj Arora

The chief perfumer and tobacco flavorist of Sacheerome discusses how trends towards health and wellness are applying to tobacco flavors and fragrances.

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Keeping Laundry Detergent Fresh

As consumers become more sophisticated with their fragrance choices in home care, air care, candles and car care among others, fragrances are beginning to emerge as a popular feature in laundry detergent products as well.

Trend Trek

Highlights from the WFFC Excursion in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Thugs, Bugs and Vanilla

Madagascan politics and a virulent crop disease highlight vanilla’s tenuous supply conditions.

Grown in Madagascar, vanilla CO₂ brings complexity and richness to fragrances.

Perfumer Notes: Vanilla CO₂

Grown in Madagascar, vanilla CO₂ brings complexity and richness to fragrances.

Green Vanilla Bean Quality

Understanding the parameters of the vanilla bean brings about potential for control, management and flexibility in process operation and in the quality of the final product

Forward Thinking: Sweet on Vanilla

Vanilla has warmed its way into flavorists' and perfumers' palettes as a classic, yet on-trend ingredient

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Forward Thinking: Enchanted By Vanilla

Consumers still have a sweet spot for this tried-and-true flavor and fragrance.

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Forward Thinking: Fragrances Spring Forward, Part 1

Current fine fragrance activity is being driven by experiential retailers, custom fragrance technology, natural fragrances, gender-fluid launches, hero ingredients, eye-catching packaging, book releases and beverages using scents to enhance the olfactory experience.

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Vanilla Enters the World of Genomics

Within the last few years, the development of new DNA sequencing technologies has revolutionized the study of crop plants. New technologies are now available that provide high-throughput DNA sequence coverage at low cost, making their application to smaller crops possible. Two research groups are currently applying these new technologies to Vanilla planifolia to study some of the important issues with Vanilla, such as disease susceptibility and vanillin biosynthesis.

The Quality of Cured Vanilla Beans

Flavor and sensory attributes and mouthfeel

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Key materials: Inside Vanilla

Vanilla planifolia’s botany, curing options, cultural history and future market prospects

The State of Vanilla: Challenges and Opportunities

“Madagascar produces 80% of the global [supply] for vanilla,” says Scott May, Givaudan’s global head of sweet goods and dairy. In light of such a fi gure, it is easy to see how even isolated regional events can have debilitating effects on a global scale.

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U.S. Vanilla Regulations—Time for an Update?

Implementing an updated regulatory model for vanilla could provide more stability across the value chain.

When I was a child, I use to think of vanilla as basic and plain but as a perfumer, I have found that there is nothing basic about it.

Notes on Formulating with Vanilla Absolute, Madagascar

A new appreciation for a fragrance industry staple.

Vanilla flavor is dominated by phenols and their transformation products mostly derived from enzymatic hydrolysis of the phenyl-β-D-glucosides. Cocoa bean flavor is dominated by Strecker aldehydes and pyrazines and other products generated during the roasting process of the beans.

Extracting the Essence: Comparing Vanilla and Cocoa Processes

Understanding the similarities and differences in biochemistry, chemistry and curing processes of vanilla and cocoa may offer insight into producing high-quality materials.

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