Curiosity sparked by her mother's miniature fragrance collection set Jamie Y. Tan, perfumer at Agilex Fragrances, on an unconventional career path. After overcoming repeated rejections to break into an industry with few visible entry points in Singapore, Tan worked her way from laboratory technician to perfumer, ultimately seeing her creations reach global retail shelves. In this Q&A, she discusses perseverance, the detective work behind fragrance development, balancing artistic vision with technical constraints, and why curiosity remains a perfumer's most valuable raw material.
Tan: My curiosity began with my mother’s miniature fragrance collection. I was fascinated by how a single scent could evoke memories and, emotions. That early intrigue grew into a deeper fascination with the mystery of smell.
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Curiosity sparked by her mother's miniature fragrance collection set Jamie Y. Tan, perfumer at Agilex Fragrances, on an unconventional career path. After overcoming repeated rejections to break into an industry with few visible entry points in Singapore, Tan worked her way from laboratory technician to perfumer, ultimately seeing her creations reach global retail shelves. In this Q&A, she discusses perseverance, the detective work behind fragrance development, balancing artistic vision with technical constraints, and why curiosity remains a perfumer's most valuable raw material.
What led you to the fragrance industry?
Tan: My curiosity began with my mother’s miniature fragrance collection. I was fascinated by how a single scent could evoke memories and, emotions. That early intrigue grew into a deeper fascination with the mystery of smell.
After many job applications and rejections, I eventually secured a position as a laboratory technician in the fragrance industry. From there, I gradually worked my way up to becoming a perfumer.
My time as a lab technician was pivotal—it was where my inquisitiveness truly took shape. I’m extremely grateful for the chance to learn from perfumers, hear their experiences, and understand their creative processes. Their stories inspired me and fueled my determination to one day stand where they stood.
Can you share a defining moment or breakthrough in your career as a perfumer?
Tan: One defining moment in my career was seeing a fragrance I had worked on for years finally reach the shelves of major retailers. In this industry, it’s common to pour countless hours into a creation without knowing when—or if—it will make it to market. So, witnessing the culmination of that effort was both surreal and deeply rewarding.
Having the opportunity to contribute to a global brand still humbles me. It reminds me to stay grounded, grateful, and committed to my craft. Even now, I still catch myself having “pinch-me” moments.
What were some of the biggest challenges you faced when entering the perfume industry, and how did you overcome them?
Tan: One of the biggest challenges I faced entering the perfume industry was simply finding my way into it. In Singapore, the fragrance field is not well-known, let alone a common career path. Unless you already know someone in the industry, the chances of even discovering these opportunities—much less securing one—are incredibly slim.
I faced a lot of rejection early on, but I learned that many “no’s” eventually lead to the one “yes” that matters. What helped me push through was staying persistent, trusting the process, and giving myself grace. I held on to the belief that with the right timing, the right opportunity would come.
Can you describe a time when a fragrance formulation didn’t turn out as expected? How did you address the issue?
Tan: It happens more often than we’d like to admit. In a fast-paced world constantly chasing new innovations, trends, and base formulations—often without full communication from clients—fragrance development can become quite challenging. When a formulation doesn’t turn out as expected, the first step is always to gather more clarity.
We work closely with our sales team to better understand the client’s needs, and partner with our technical team to troubleshoot together. From there, it becomes a process of careful adjustments, trials, and plenty of trial-and-error. It sometimes feels like being part of the CIA—piecing together clues until the mystery finally unravels. And when everything aligns and the fragrance works? It’s an absolute cloud-nine moment.
How do you find the right balance between artistic expression and the technical limitations of perfume formulation?
Tan: For me, the beauty of being a perfumer lies in the ability to dream freely and create without stifling that artistic spirit. But balancing creativity with technical limitations—like regulatory restrictions and cost constraints—is an essential part of the craft.
The key is truly knowing your raw material palette: how each ingredient behaves, how it interacts with others, and how to achieve the desired effect within realistic boundaries. When you understand your materials deeply, you can stay imaginative while still formulating responsibly and effectively.
Are there specific skills or knowledge areas you believe are crucial for a perfumer to master?
Tan: The ability to smell with precision and distinguish subtle nuances between different materials is vital for any perfumer. But beyond that, curiosity and courage play a big role. Being bold enough to explore unfamiliar raw materials and experiment with unexpected combinations can lead to surprising and beautiful results. Above all, staying true to your own creative identity is essential.
Your individuality is what ultimately shapes your signature as a perfumer. I believe patience and persistence goes a long way. I’ll admit—I’m still working on my patience. Thankfully, this field gives me plenty of practice.
