Perfumery: Techniques In Evolution. Part V


The woody family and subgroup of rooty is often is confused with vetiver, because vetiver is rooty and woody at the same time. In the past I have mentioned products like Vetykone, Rhubaflor, Vigoflor (IFF) and Rhubafuran (Soofi) (rooty-vetiver), Rootanol (rooty-floral-woody), Geosmin, Huminol and Huminol M (humid and rooty), trans-2-nonenal, and Irivone, among others.

Roots are as ambiguous as woods are. Vetiver, patchouli and sandalwood are “woods,” but do they really resemble each other? This is again proof of the difficulty of expressing emotions and sensory experiences through wording. I discussed this topic very often with Edmond Roudnitska. We both dreamed of having had Marcel Proust beside us in our laboratories and judging his assertions when smelling essential oils and chemicals. Unfortunately, we were born too late, or Proust too early. It would be interesting to see how Proust would describe contemporary olfactory ingredients (which he would surely love), not to mention how he would judge our modern arrogant society.

Within woody-rooty I would like to mention:

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