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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance > Fine Fragrance

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The Juice: Neil Morris

“The hippies used to wear patchouli, sandalwood and ambergris,” says Neil, “but I would take those and blend them all together in a certain way—and people would say ‘Hey man, would you make me some of that oil?’ And that’s how I became known as the oil guy. It just sort of happened.”

The Juice: Perfumer Profile: Wessel-Jan Kos, Firmenich

With a rich career under his nose, Wessel-Jan shares his experiences as a creative and enthusiastic perfumer adapting to an evolving industry.

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Intoxicating Jasmine: There’s No Substitute for the Real Thing

A comparison of flower versus absolute components.

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Editor's Note: Thriving into the Future

What is the state of naturals in 2016?

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The Future of Fragrance: World Perfumery Congress 2016

This year's congress brought together more than 1,100 attendees worldwide to discuss what makes "scents" in fragrance sustainability.

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The Juice: Inside Givaudan Perfumery School

Along with rigorously memorizing 500 materials within the first several months, training to become a perfumer requires a fine balance of passion, creativity, patience and technical skill.

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Indian Sandalwood Returns to the Perfumer’s Palette

Industry perfumers muse about the rare Indian sandalwood’s (Santalum album) earthy and complex notes sought after in fine fragrance formulations.

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The Juice: Luca Turin – Olfactory Iconoclast

In an exclusive interview with biophysicist, Luca Turin, he discusses his controversial vibrational olfaction theory and his passion for perfume.

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The Power of Scents and Brands

Never before has an interactive discussion between a fragrance house and its client taken place in a public setting. Never before until today, that is—when Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief of Perfumer & Flavorist and Global Cosmetic Industries magazines, and program director of the World Perfumery Congress (WPC), brought both to the stage to lead attendees through the dynamics of the client-perfumer relationship and the power it brings to brands.

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The Juice: Fragrance Evaluation for Independent Brands, Passion Above All

What happens when there is a fragrance evaluator between a brand and a fragrance house? Are they gatekeepers, critics, interpreters, co-creators, all of these or something else?

More Perfume Materiak from Isoprene

We should all realize that the new Toxic Substances Control Act, which Congress is about to pass, will increase considerably the cost of developing new aroma chemicals. The new law may reduce the number of such chemicals drastically. Closer cooperation between the fragrance and the aroma chemical industries will now be even more important in order to maintain a healthy level of innovation in areas of mutual interest.

Design and Creation of a Successful Major Fragrance

This discussion of the design and creation of successful major fragrances will deal with tbe subject from the standpoint of fragrance planning and evaluation by a major marketer. I see this as a creative process, not as a science, but as an art--an artistic process which should have as its end not only a work of beauty, but a fine product which will make a major contribution to the profit picture of its marketer.

Base notes of perfumery

It is far easier to produce original top notes than original base notes. This is the reason I am going to discuss the blending of tenacious perfumery raw materials.

Cyclialkylation of aromatics with isoprene Musks to herbicides

The indan derivatives which contain only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are unique herbicides, and we are hopeful that they will partly fill the present day need for harmless biodegradable pesticides.

Sensory Evaluation in Product Development for Cosmetics and Fragrances

The purpose of this short course is to provide those concerned with cosmetic product development and evaluation an overview of scaling and the types of information and applications that derive from consumer product assessment. This short course will cover the history of the magnitude estimation procedure, its development and applications, as well as “hands on” evaluations and analysis.

Creative process in perfumery

The process involved in the creation of a fragrance are many, complex, and terribly abstract. I would like to share with you my notions about how a perfume is created, primarily from the vantage point of what goes on in the perfumer's head. What are the sources of inspiration to the perfumer? How does a fragrance develop from concept to finished creation?

Nitriles in perfumery

The secure position that nitriles currently hold on the perfumer’s palette can only be strengthened by continued activity in the synthesis and utilization of this most interesting class of aroma chemical.

Nitriles: their in perfumery

It is necessary for every perfume company to have an active chemical research team. The difficulties perfumers meet have become more complicated due to the great diversity of new chemicals that have become available during the last fifteen years. Too many products with very similar notes, even though their structures are different, are offered to our sense of smell.

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