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The Elusive Lily of the Valley: New Beyond Muguet Bases

Firmenich Inc
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Firmenich offers two of its unique Beyond Muguet bases containing captive molecules. Beyond LILYFLORE® and Beyond HIVERNAL® NEO provide the building blocks for exploring new muguet fragrances… and beyond!

Lily of the valley is a “mute” flower, meaning there is no natural extract. With the restriction of ingredients such as Lilial® and Lyral®, perfumers are still looking for the elusive lily of the valley, or muguet, fragrance ingredients. Firmenich opened access to two of its unique Beyond Muguet bases containing captive molecules to the whole industry through its annual Sharing Innovation program.

“Nobody has found the perfect replacement for Lilial® or Lyral® yet, and that was the idea of the Beyond Muguet study. We have an exceptional set of molecules to build muguet accords,” explains Julien Firmenich, Vice President Sales, Ingredients, Perfumery.

Beyond Muguet is a brand-new creative approach around muguet notes. The approach is not one solution but a series of 7 molecules, including 3 captives, combined to deliver new emotions and new territories for fresh and transparent floral notes.

The Firmenich ingredients series pushes the boundaries of creativity and offers a new angle to tell the story of transparent floral notes. Firmenich Principal Perfumer & Director of New Ingredient Discovery François-Raphaël Balestra adds, “To describe the olfactive profile of each molecule in the Beyond Muguet study, we defined eleven descriptors and marked them on a scale of zero to five, identifying a visual representation of each molecule’s olfactive profile.

Using the visual representations of Lilial® and Lyral® as a reference, the Beyond Muguet combinations were noted on the same scale, creating a visual that perfectly echoes each one’s corresponding odour.”

Compare Beyond Lilyflore® and Beyond Hivernal®Neo Profiles

In the early and mid-20th century, muguet was often used as a single accord or a soliflore. Today, muguet often is used as an abstract floralcy to create a fresh, clean and airy quality in fragrances. It appears as airiness, a brightness and freshness that give a luminous aura to the fragrance.

Balestra continues, “Muguet is a particularly versatile note. You can make it fresh, transparent, green or caring – it’s something that can adapt depending on how and where it is being used. Now we are in a situation where we find these muguet facets everywhere, whether as small or prominent facets of the fragrance, and that’s why they are so important.”

Lily of the Valley is complex with many different nuances, such as rosy, powdery, aldehydic facets. Both Beyond LILYFLORE® and Beyond HIVERNAL® NEO provide the building blocks for exploring new muguet fragrances… and beyond!

For more information, visit http://response.firmenich.com/ingredients

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