Name: November Nichols
Title: Founder and CEO, Chemin
Current location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
What led you to the fragrance industry?
November Nichols [NN]: I entered the fragrance industry out of a need – it sort of just happened when I was forced to create a candle to support my meditation practice. Back in 2016, I worked in educational publishing and traveled nonstop everywhere from Iowa to Guam. I was a rockstar at work, but my personal life was falling apart.
At the time, I had just gotten a promotion that required me to move to Los Angeles, my son (who was a senior at the time and promised that he would move there with me) got cold feet and decided to stay home with his grandparents for his senior year, which caused me to go into depression. In those dark moments, I realized that I had to do something different before I lost everyone I loved. I made a conscious decision about how I wanted my life to be in the future (since I had no personal life at the time). And creating a meditation practice was my safe space that allowed me to do the heart work that was necessary. My ritual includes lighting a candle, drinking tea and sitting with myself.
When my favorite candle company discontinued my favorite scent (which was a complete bummer because of me bring fragrance averse), I started looking up notes, found the supplies and made my own candle, which is now: “The Energy Candle” at Chemin. Friends started coming over and complimenting the smell. One went to my altar and found out that it was my personal candle and requested one. I started making them for friends and the artistry of it soothed my soul and gave me direction.
After being convinced by my friends, I went to a Pinterest convention with my candles, hand-crafted body butter and oils, where clients got to pick a base, and a fragrance, and receive a custom product. After creating a perfume formula for a needy customer, I knew I was on to something: that I was solving a problem, catering to people whose fragrances were no longer available and who needed new ones.
Are there any recent projects/wins you’re particularly proud of?
NN: I am very proud of our new partnership with JC Penney. We [have] launched an affordable luxury collection in-store and online on January 10, 2024. As an indie fragrance house founded, owned and operated by a black woman, this is obviously a huge deal because this is the first time a major retailer has gotten behind a black-owned fragrance brand in this way! Normally, a retailer will choose to bring in one or two SKUs from a collection, but JCPenney is launching 32 of our SKUs! It's all so very exciting! As a creator, this type of investment in my brand fills my cup and makes all the work for all these years worthwhile. It also speaks volumes to JC Penney's commitment to amplifying creators within the communities that they serve. I could not ask for a better retail partner.
Advice for people coming into the perfume field.
NN: If you are creating your own fragrance or scent, it's best to lean into the things you love. Think about how you live and how you want to feel when wearing your fragrance. Think of it like a superhero cape. Ask yourself, “what do you want to represent” since it will be viewed as a layer of your personality. Don’t just go after names, go after feelings. Custom is always the way to go. In the winter, go for heavier notes. In Spring and Summer, go for lighter scents. No fragrance is complete without you. The chemistry is different with each person wearing the fragrance.
When creating a fragrance company, don’t just think about the product. Well, of course, you want to produce an amazing quality product, but make sure you are creating with intent. Why are you creating it? What do you want your company to be about? What sets your brand apart from the rest?
Please make sure to carve out a space for yourself. That is a critical first step. After that, please do your market research. Find out who else is in your industry and how they are performing. Also, make sure you know who you’re selling and marketing to.
Are the types of projects you're working on changing over time?
NN: From Mass-Market to Niche and Personalized Scents
Earlier in My Career: I initially found myself working mostly on mass-market fragrances. These were typically designed to appeal to broad consumer bases and were often dictated by current market trends and popular notes. The focus was on creating a scent that would sell well across a wide demographic, often leading to less adventurous creations.
Now: There's been a distinct shift towards niche and personalized fragrances. Clients and brands are increasingly seeking unique, distinctive scents that stand out or cater to specific preferences. This change has allowed me to delve deeper into rare and unusual ingredients and spend more time crafting a fragrance that tells a story or suits an individual's specific taste. I'm often working on bespoke fragrances or limited-edition scents for smaller, boutique brands, which allows for a greater degree of creativity and innovation.
Emphasis on Sustainable and Ethical Practices
Early in My Career: When I first started, the conversation around sustainability was present but not as pronounced as it is today. Projects didn't always prioritize the sourcing of ingredients or the environmental impact of production. The focus was more on the final scent and less on its origins or lifecycle.
Now: There's been a significant shift towards sustainability and ethical sourcing. Clients and consumers alike are much more informed and concerned about where ingredients come from, how they are harvested, and their environmental footprint. I now find myself working more closely with suppliers to ensure that the ingredients I use are ethically sourced and sustainable. I'm also involved in projects aimed at reducing waste and creating more eco-friendly packaging. This shift has not only changed the types of projects I'm working on but also made me more conscientious and informed as a perfumer.
These shifts reflect broader changes in the industry and society, pushing me to continuously evolve and adapt my skills. The challenge is to stay ahead of trends, deeply understand new consumer expectations, and always innovate in my craft to create fragrances that resonate with contemporary desires and values.
When asked about how the creative demands of the job are evolving, Nichols mentions consumer education, "As consumers become more knowledgeable and interested in the ingredients and process of perfume-making, we are called upon to educate and communicate more about our craft, ingredients, and the stories behind their scents."courtesy of November Nichols
How are the creative demands of the job evolving?
NN: The creative demands of being a perfumer are evolving in several ways:
- Technological Advancements: New technology is changing how scents are developed, analyzed, and produced. For example AI can now predict fragrance combinations and success rates, which obviously influences the creative process.
- Sustainability and Ethical Sourcing: Over the last decade, there has been a growing demand for sustainable and ethically sourced ingredients. We are increasingly required to create scents that not only smell good but also are environmentally friendly and ethically produced.
- Personalization: The trend towards personalized fragrances means we must be more adept at creating a wider variety of unique scents tailored to individual preferences. This requires a deeper understanding of how different notes interact and how they can be tailored to suit a broad spectrum of individual tastes.
- Cultural Sensitivity and Globalization: As the market becomes more global, we must be culturally aware and sensitive to different markets' tastes and norms. We have to be able to blend traditional and modern elements in a way that appeals to a global audience.
- Regulatory Compliance: Increasing regulations on ingredients and disclosures means we must be knowledgeable about the legal aspects of fragrance creation, ensuring our creations comply with international standards and regulations.
- Artistic Collaboration: There's a growing trend of collaboration between perfumers and artists, designers, and other creative professionals. This requires us to think beyond the scent itself and consider how it complements and enhances other artistic elements.
- Consumer Education: As consumers become more knowledgeable and interested in the ingredients and process of perfume-making, we are called upon to educate and communicate more about our craft, ingredients, and the stories behind their scents.
- Niche and Artisanal Markets: The rise of niche and artisanal perfume brands means perfumers are often tasked with creating more complex, unique, and high-quality scents that stand out in a crowded market.
So, in response to these evolving demands, we must continually adapt, learn, and expand our artistic and technical skills to create fragrances that meet contemporary needs and desires while retaining our own creative signature.
What is the best part of your job?
NN: I do not consider what I do to be a job. I am blessed beyond measure to get to do what I love every single day, as well as provide an entry point for others into the amazing world of fragrance. This is definitely not a job! This is a DREAM!
