Name: Chiraz Mouradian
Title: Perfumer, Lebermuth
Current location: South Bend, Indiana
Perfumer & Flavorist+ [P&F+]: What led you to the fragrance industry?
Chiraz Mouradian [CM]: I grew up in Paris, influenced by a multicultural household rich in the fragrances and flavors of Armenian and Middle Eastern heritage. My primary inspiration for perfumery stems from nature, a connection I nurtured during my childhood days spent on scouting trips, camping, and hiking, as well as through the botanicals my herbalist grandmother blended for her concoctions.
I always had a passion for chemistry and art. I always loved science, especially chemistry and at 15, after reading an interview with a perfumer in a magazine, I became obsessed with the craft. That led me to Pierre and Marie Curie where I did my undergraduate studies in chemistry to then study perfumery and phytochemistry at ISIPCA and Corte University. After gaining a few years of experience, I developed a deep fascination with understanding raw materials and how they interact to create unique olfactory stories.
P&F+: What applications do you primarily formulate for? Has this changed since you first began your career?
CM: As a cross-category perfumer, I work on a diverse range of product applications. When I began my career, I focused primarily on personal care and skincare products. Over time, my experience has expanded to include hair care, air care, bath and body care, fine fragrances, and essential oil blends.
Being a cross-category perfumer allows me to experiment with various raw materials in different contexts, enhancing my understanding of their distinct characteristics and performance. Each application offers a unique perspective and serves as a rich source of fragrance inspiration. My favorite applications are fine fragrances and candles.
In fine fragrance, working with alcohol and applying scents to the skin allows for the use of natural raw materials that lend unique nuances to the fragrance, much like wearing a piece of jewelry. Creating candles involves crafting two fragrances in one: the cold throw in wax, which reflects like a precious gem, and the hot throw, which diffuses the scent throughout a space. Each is crucial, providing a different dimension to the full fragrance experience, much like the difference between listening to music on a device and experiencing it live.
P&F+: What are some of the current trends that are exciting you at the moment?
CM: I'm particularly excited by two trends. First, the way Gen Z experiences fragrance as consumers is fascinating. They are driven by emotion and experience, giving perfumers immense creative freedom. This generation is complex, conscious, and mindful of what they consume, seeking cost-effective, high-quality, and sustainable options. They also use fragrances to express themselves beyond traditional fragrance aesthetics.
The second trend is the fragrance industry's incorporation of multisensory and multimedia elements in marketing for social media and showrooms. Perfumers are increasingly developing synesthetic projects and collaborating with other media artists. Fragrance is emerging as a captivating art form that appeals to the world, beyond our niche industry.
P&F+: Are there any formulations you would consider timeless? Why?
CM: I believe a fragrance becomes timeless when it resonates with people or a generation, creating a lasting bond that marks a social and cultural milestone with its unique aesthetic and sillage. For me that’s Santal 33. This fragrance is uniquely complex yet simple and has come to define the 2010s, beginning in New York and spreading across the globe.
Having moved to the United States six years ago and lived in three different cities while traveling through several states, I've gained a deeper understanding of why Santal 33 has become such an iconic and timeless fragrance, setting trends in this country. It’s a genderless fragrance, connecting urban modernity to nostalgia for nature.
P&F+: Advice for people coming into the perfume field.
CM: The fragrance world is thrilling and continuously evolving, with perfumers continually seeking new trends and innovative ways to convey unique olfactive stories and sensations. Countless possibilities and untold stories await exploration.
I believe future and more diverse generations will bring fresh perspectives to this art form. Staying curious and continually self-reflecting are vital for honing your skills and becoming an exceptional storyteller.
