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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance > Fine Fragrance

Odor Properties of 1-(p-Alkyl)Phenylethanols and Their Esters

All the substances have, principally, similar odor characters, possessing fruity, flowery, woody, penetrant odor notes with minor rotten, moldy notes. Other characteristic notes were observed in some compounds. Odor thresholds show mostly medium values, suitable for application in perfumery products.

Presented with the swatch that would inspire Bill Blass Couture 7, Delphine Jelk was struck by its sense of spontaneity: 'So I went to citrus, very sparkling.'

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Three perfumers discuss their translations of couture into scent.

Perfumers at work: 4 and 5

Four questions with drom’s Barbara Zoebelein and her five picks for fragrance’s future. drom perfumer Barbara Zoebelein is the recipient of a 2006 FiFi award (men’s private label/direct sell category) for Avon’s today TOMORROW always for Men. We wondered what makes an award winning perfumer, so we recently asked her about her art, challenges and a prescription for this ailing category: artistry, craft and risk-taking.

Civet and Civet Compounds

Animal Notes in Perfumery. Only a few perfume materials of animal origin are used in perfumery. Among them are musk, ambergris, civet and castoreum. Civet is the subject of this article

Four Decades as a Perfumer-Comments by a Contrarious Curmudgeon

Four Decades of Perfumery--in English, that means forty years—where have we progressed, where have we retrogressed, and where have we reinvented the wheel? I propose to present not only a rear mirror view of perfumery in comparison with what it is today, but I’d also like to comment on some of our current practices, foibles and discombobulations.

Concerning the Circumstances Favorable to the Creation of an Original Perfume

For the person who is endowed with imagination, everything serves as a pretext for imagining— in other words, for executing projects of the mind in a preferred field or fields. This becomes all the more rapidly a game because being experienced in this type of gymnastic one practices it with success and consequently with pleasure. And the imaginative person, gifted with taste, wiIl naturally be drawn in the direction of artistic creation.

The Creative Perfumery Competition

The second Creative Perfumery Competition produced entries from 18 countries, and an excellect response from perfumers. The competition was based on the use of the aroma chemical Pseudojasmone from Emery Chemicals, to be used at a minimum level of 2.5%.

Aroma Chemicals and Citrus Oils

Natural citrus oils cannot be reconstituted (substituted) by compounding aroma chemicals for three reasons: (1) Citrus oils are complex mixtures, up to 300 chemicals of which many are unknown. (2) If they are known, many are not commercially available. (3) Individual constituents with asymmetric carbon atoms, mostly are optically active, A lot of aroma chemicals are not. On the other hand, aroma chemicals with citrusy odors deserve their own place for compounds in functional perfumery, mainly for stability reasons.

Comparing Notes: Complexity, Performance and Natural Effects

Perfumers Olivia Jan and Donna Ramanauskas discuss guaiacwood, jasmine sambac and oxathiane for fine fragrance, personal care and consumer product applications.

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Fragrance Viewpoint: Cinematic Coffret

Fragrance envelope pushers Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz translate a new film into 15 essences. There is much talk in the perfume industry regarding the abundance of lackluster fragrance releases. Although this is much to the consternation of all, it’s no wonder; after the terrorist attacks in September 2001, the issue of safety has become acutely prevalent in our culture, almost to the point of pathology.

Comparing Notes: A Q&A with Christine Nagel

Identifying new talent, new ingredients and evolving creativity

Synthesis and Odor Characteristics of Some Cyclopentane Derivatives

In this work we present the synthesis and odor characteristics of some cyclopentane derivatives. Compounds described in this paper can be considered as cyclic analogues of geraniol, citronellol, dihydrocitronellol and their derivatives.

The Creative Perfumery Competition Sponsored by BASF AG

The competition was based on the new aroma chemical “Jasmorange” from BASF AG. Perfumers were invited to create a perfumery specialty base using a minimum of 1% Jasmorange with up to nine additional perfumery materials to create a perfumery accord that would have wide utility in perfume compositions for a wide variety of products.

Creative Perfumery in a Commercial World

A change in our mission has shown itself. We must at the same time seize everything new, everything innovative, anticipate in every way; we must also contribute to creating new consuming mediums, new consuming patterns.

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Natural Citronellol from Java Citronella Oil

Add natural freshness and brightness of floral-rosy, citrusy scent to your fragrance creation with Natural Citronellol derived from Java Citronella Oil.

Synthesis and odor properties of carene and carane derivatives

The purpose of this report is to detail the syntheses of novel 4-substituted derivatives of carene and carane, and studies of their sensory (odorous) properties.

Creative Contribution of Natural Substances in Present Day Perfumery

Because nature makes such good use of the chemical substances it produces, and because nature shows the path to follow, why then should not perfumers do so as well to the limit of their capabilities? In the realm of technology there are many disciplines that derive both their knowledge and their know-how from nature, and perfumery is one of these disciplines.

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Fragrance Ingredient Communication: Negotiating and Implementing California’s SB 258

Also known as the Cleaning Products Right to Know Act, SB 258 presented an opportunity for the International Fragrance Association North America to engage all stakeholders for meaningful fragrance ingredient communication.

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