While the World Perfumery Congress 2024 (WPC) is in progress and each industry contestant is showing off its wonders, the level of buoyancy becomes stronger. In Geneva, the excitement stems from ingredients novelties and contentment for innovative technologies. The visitor catches both the exhilaration and the tension as the heady scent of competition is in the air during one of the key events in the perfume industry. For my first visit to the WPC, I could not help falling head over heels, smelling magnificent ingredients while engaging with the most talented perfumers and experienced actors. There were three intense days full of scent diverse ways; uncovering concept stands, smelling ingredients, listening to conferences, mingling with participants, and finally networking and partying in the evening! In the end, so much learning resulted from attending.
My intention is not to provide the reader with an extensive exhibitor summary but to outline a selection of personal highlights of my exhibition itinerary.
WPC 2024 hosted three intense days of mesmerizing conferences.
A Relentless Quest For The Best Ingredients. And More.
The 2024 WPC is ‘the sensory event for fragrance leaders’. For industry players who tackle the Olympic battle, the competition is all about innovation. The medals will reward the absolute best performances in fragrance trends, ingredients, creativity, and technologies. In my opinion, the motto ‘altius, citius, fortius’ applies to the tempo of the perfume industry. One key finding was the understanding of two ingredient categories, captive and non-captive. Captive means proprietary and therefore exclusive to specific clients. Whereas the palette of non-captive is up for sale to the market, including direct competitors. A player can very well acknowledge the quality of an ingredient from another contestant and elect to purchase the molecule. Like a decathlon athlete who rarely is the best in all the ten disciplines of the contest. In the end, it is the overall best athlete who wins the game.
Without further ado, I start my paper with an original and ‘natural’ corner. The first-time stand was popular during the show and was not in the shadow, yet I want to show my appreciation for their grand mission.
1. The World 7 Wonders of Nature. The Naturals Corner.
The 7 wonders official list features the Iguazu Falls (South America), Ha Long Bay (Vietnam), Jeju Island (South Korea), Puerto Princesa Underground River (Philippines), Table Mountain (South Africa), Komodo Island (Indonesia), and the Amazon Forest (South America). At WPC, the 7 wonders are of a different nature with ingredients as superstars. The Naturals Corner exhibits seven world-independent producers and their stunning natural ingredients; rose and lavender in Bulgaria (by Enio Bonchev Production Ltd); vanilla and spices in Madagascar (by Jacarandas Madagascar); flowers and spices in India (by Jasmine Concrete Exports Private Limited); Peru balsam, styrax, guaiac wood and more in South America (by Nelixia); lavender in the South of France (by Cooperative SCA3P); spices, herbs and coconut in Sri Lanka (Verger); various native naturals in Europe (by Agroforex Company).
The Naturals Corner is the creation of Resperfuma inspired by the idea of an exploration all at once of seven destinations.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
In one instant glance, the independents express their stance of shared values and commitments wherever the sourcing of ingredients takes place. The Naturals Corner is the creation of Resperfuma inspired by the idea of an exploration all at once of seven destinations. The concept puts the limelight on seven key actors and displays their absolute passion and common dedication to responsible ingredient sourcing. During the conference moderated by renowned Dominique Roques, currently president of Balsam consulting, three Naturals Corner independents debated on the topic "Naturals, What Does it Take to Source Sustainably?"
Now, moving on to the big names and their large stunning booths, I could not help but notice the stronghold of flowers. It seemed that blooms, naturals, or synthetic molecules, were everywhere and had taken the front door and space at WPC.
2. Neomagnolan by Symrise. A White Blossom Transparency.
Five years of research and development led to the creation of Neomagnolan by Alexandre Illian, a perfumer in the aroma molecules division of Symrise. The name ‘neo’ conveys the idea that it is a new take on Magnolan; launched in the 50s the grand abstract floral is an industry classic. The new molecule is like a grandchild, respectful and zestful, raised to become the suitable successor of a 70-year-old senior member. With a broad smile and infectious enthusiasm, Illian kindly takes the time to describe the new creation and compare it with the older version. He promptly uses four adjectives to define Neomagnolan the new kid on the block: fresh, modern, luminous, and transparent. I can add: absolutely lovely. He also hands me product data and demonstration formulae brochure, rich in chemical information, odor description, performance and perfumery use.
The Neomagnolan product data and a demonstration formula brochure, rich in chemical information, odor description, performance, and perfumery use.Laurence Arrigo-Klove
The white shade picked by Symrise at the WPC fits nicely with the floral bloom, infused with clean, calm and airy tones. Surely, Neomagnolan belongs to the new generation of white and light florals, full of an irresistible attraction.
Surely, Neomagnolan belongs to the new generation of white and light florals, full of an irresistible attraction.
The white shade of Symrise's WPC booth fits nicely with the floral bloom, infused with clean, calm and airy tones.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
3. The Nympheal impressionist garden at Givaudan
Givaudan chose the theme of a garden, and what a garden!
Givaudan chose the name Nympheal inspired by Claude Monet’s stunning impressionism paintings of water lilies or nymphéas. A clear flower inspiration behind the creation of a white magical floral and its transfiguration into distinct colors, volumes, and perspectives. A new landscape in full bloom, an evocative escape named The Molecular Garden. To demonstrate the versatility of the olfactory profile of Nympheal. Givaudan utilized the lovely muguet aldehyde in perfume, laundry fabric, softener, shampoo, candle and my personal favorite, textile formulations. I am a fan of Toile by Byredo, so I am particularly fond of the T-shirt spritz called Citrus pour soi. What a memorable impression of a sustainable creation! What’s more, I love the opulence of the fragrance.
The 'Molecular Garden by Givaudan exhibited the versatility of ‘Nympheal,’ a new floral bloom.
I also listened to the Givaudan conference session "Understanding & Capitalizing on Gen Z’s New Olfactive Codes" presented by mesmerizing Arnaud Guggenbuhl, global head of marketing, Insights & Image Fine Fragrance and perfumer Nisrine Grillié. As I had not seen the ‘What Is Love’ exhibition, the presentation was an amazing experience. I learned the social listening base of the solid two-year research and got a glimpse of a different world. I embraced the different language of the Gen Z generation, the ‘no filter,’ ‘me myself and I,’ ‘swipe right,’ and specific frames of mind on identity, gender, and dating. I was enthralled by the perfect translation into two perfumes; ‘Cry Me A River’ a protecting shield against anxiety and "Come as You Are" a pure expression of animal attraction.
WPC hosted a conference session "Understanding & Capitalizing on Gen Z’s New Olfactive Codes" presented by Givaudan's Arnaud Guggenbuhl(R), global head of marketing, Insights & Image Fine Fragrance and perfumer Nisrine Grillié(L).PETER WYNN THOMPSON
4. dsm-firmenich Outstanding Ingredients Collection
The company has a rich history of magnificent perfumery ingredients, authentic jewelry treasures based on advanced scientific innovations and experienced natural extractions. I indulged in the 2024 six-collection novelties; two delightful naturals (Pink Pepper Madagascar, Jasmine Flower India), three magnetic synthetics (dihydroestragol, Velvet Musk, Cashmere Mush) and a superb patchouli based on biotech (Clearwood Prisma). I especially loved the daring of dihydroestragol, an original aromatic, tarragon with a licorice undertone. It was easy to engage in the dsm-firmenich experience; I smelled stunning ingredients, discussed with welcoming employees, scanned QR codes and played with fragrance-smelling pencils. The playful pencils are smelling tools, not to be applied on the skin, for the nose only. There is a large palette of pencils on display, which made me think of the name ‘Beautiful Colors of Ingredients.’
dsm-firmenich revealed its authentic ‘jewels,’ its ingredients collection.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
To sum up dsm-firmenich's outstanding collection and obsession with ingredients quality. The conference session, "Innovation in Fragrance Creation: Partnership and New Technology at the Heart of New Ingredient Discovery" unveiled the raw passion of the company's François-Raphael Balestra, master perfumer & New Ingredients Discovery and Sarah Reisinger, Chief Science & Research officer.
The dsm-firmenich WPC 2024 booth utilized playful pencils as smelling tools, not to be applied on the skin, for the nose only for attendees to experience scents.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
5. Mane time space station. An exploration mission.
With the line ‘We Capture What Moves’ Mane took the visitor through a scientific journey in space and time…
Like the Geneva CERN Science Gateway, the tube created by Mane is a journey through space, time, science, and the environment. It is a limited edition scientific station as once the WPC is over, the paper-based station will be packed down and recycled. The original Mane station is an exploration mission of perfume ingredients. The creative capsule opens new horizons with wide perfume configurations and a beautiful world in transformation. The space position is for fragrance adventurers, molecules lovers, experts’ station perfumers, enthusiastic visitors, and optimists’ carbon reducers. There was a splendid ingredients palette to discover at the gate with six molecules from the future available in the present; Sublimolide, a warm vegan musk; Benzoin Siam, a spicy ambery pure jungle essence; Rosa Lani absolute, a uniquely delicate and fruity rose from Moldova; Antillone, a crispy biotech tropical molecule; Jasmine Sambac, with orange flower facet and E-Pure Jungle Essence; Spicyrup, a gourmand new creation inspired by a carrot cake. Spicyrup in itself encapsulates the ‘traveling’ story of Mane olfactory station; it is a surprising journey, taking off with a fresh and aromatic start, then cruising over a warm spice and woody licorice and finally landing on a vanilla and caramel embrace. Utterly mesmerizing!
At Mane's WPC 2024 booth, there was a splendid ingredients palette to discover at the gate with six molecules from the future available in the present.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
The conference session, "Rescuing The Rare: Pairing Genuine Plant Conservation with New Responsible Ingredient Creation" was moderated by Sophia Gillio, director of Latin American Strategic Development (Mane) and included Vanessa Handley, director of Conservation Science (The Red List Project), Mathilde Bijaoui, senior perfumer Fine Fragrance (Mane) and Victor Mane, director, Creation, Fine Fragrance & Ingredients (Mane). The discussion highlighted the partnership between Mane and The Red List Project to set up a non-profit foundation dedicated to plant conservation. It aims to prevent the extinction of the world’s endangered plant species. Through this session, I discovered three magnificent, endangered ingredients now protected by the foundation; Pacific Cycad, Magnolia Mashpi and Caribbean Juniper.
R to L: Mathilde Bijaoui, senior perfumer Fine Fragrance (Mane) and Vanessa Handley, director of Conservation Science (The Red List Project) during the "Rescuing The Rare: Pairing Genuine Plant Conservation with New Responsible Ingredient Creation" session.PETER WYNN THOMPSON
Swiss Double Cream is the Finest. And the World Perfumery Congress.
As a Swiss citizen living in Geneva, I was absolutely thrilled by the choice of the WPC. Choosing Geneva in the month of June was a promise of sunny temperatures, blue lake views, beautiful green parks, elegant outdoor scenery, and delicious sensory treats. The promise was somewhat tainted with powerful evening thunderstorms. No matter the mischievous weather, I was proud to brag about the country’s advanced position in chemistry and perfumery and the overall high-quality experience. One of such ‘peaks’ is the white Swiss double cream, absolutely delicious. On my list of pinnacles, I have now added ‘la crème de la crème,’ the finest professionals and ingredients of the best show in perfumery, the WPC.
WPC is the place to engage - and indulge - with the finest professionals and ingredients.Laurence Arrigo-Klove
*This article first appeared in Essencional titled, "WPC Best In Show. A Cast of Superstars. The Perfume Ingredients."
