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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance > Fine Fragrance

Armoise-Artemesia Herba Alba

The objectives of this paper on Armoise (Artemesia Herb. Alba) are to: --Identify growing areas --Determine the effect of growing areas on oil constitution --Contribute to the existing knowledge of components of the oil --Suggest a typical oil quality as used intemationafly in the fragrance industry --Contribute to an understanding of the influence of climate on oil constitution

Aleuritic Acid in Perfumery and Pheromones

The brief account given above indicates the vast potential which aleuritic acid holds in the synthesis of numerous useful organic compounds possessing olfactory properties. With a steady and substantial availability of threo aleuritic acid, its utility is expected to increase enormously.

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Attars of India - A Unique Aroma

In the cultural development of civilizations, a quality which lifts mankind above all others is that aesthetic sense of appreciation of the finer things in life. Nothing brings to life that sense of divine as beautifully and vividly as a pleasing perfume. Perhaps that is what made Shri Munshi, a poet and former governor of U.P. remark, “If you want to visit a perfumery town, visit Kannauj. It is art — it is culture and it is a heritage.”

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The Act of Creating is an Adventure

Jean-Claude Ellena's speech during the 2018 World Perfumery Congress* explores the ethical, philosophical and moral facets of his creative work during his tenure at Hermés.

Perfume Materials: The Addition of Acetic Acid and Allylalcohol to Dicyclopentadiene

Chemistry and sensory evaluation

GC-FT/lR and the Analysis of Aromatic Essentials

In the area of instrumentation one can hope for the emergence of more. intense energy sources, a higher transmitting light pipe, and improved electronics; all resulting in significant reduction of sample size requirements. We would hope that current research efforts in GC-FT/IR-MS continue and that that type of dedicated instrument appears in the commercial sector.

Malodor Formation in Alcoholic Perfumes Containing Vetiveryl Acetate and Vetiver Oil

Although hypothetical, the proposed schemes explain reasonably well how butene isomers and 1,1-diethoxyethane can arise from vetivmyl acetate or vetiver oil autoxidation in alcoholic perfumes. Unsaturated perfume ingredients other than vetiveryl acetate or vetiver oil could possibly exhibit a similar behavior.

Radical Addition of Acetone to Alkenes: Two Short Routes to Muscone

(–)-3-Methylcyclopentadecanone, known as muscone (Figure 1 [1]) is the principal odorous constituent of the musk deer gland. It represents a benchmark of musk odor that is in great demand for perfumery use.

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[interview] U.S. FDA on MoCRA: New Authority, Fragrance Allergens, Animal Testing and More

In this interview, the FDA describes its new MoCRA-mandated authorities, 5 requirements for industry (and how it will enforce them), the mandate for listing fragrance allergens, why animal testing was omitted from MoCRA and more.

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Revitalizing rose cultivation and a future in essential oils in Azerbaijan

Revitalizing rosa damascena cultivation and oil production in Azerbaijan’s picturesque Alazani Valley, Lecheq Farm & Distillery share a glimpse of their ethically produced treasures.

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Story in a Bottle: Anatomy of a Collection

Inside Perfume, the unique fragrance project of perfumers Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz. Inspired by Patrick Suskind’s best-selling novel, the Perfume presentation case (Thierry Mugler Parfums) is an exercise in scent’s limitless expressions—from the nostalgic to the sweet to the repellent. Loosely following the arc of Suskind’s story line, Les Christophes (as the creators are known) employed all manner of novel ingredients and combinations to tell an olfactive tale in 15 parts.

Mathematics and Perfumery: An Examination of Arithmetical Methodology

In the day-to-day work of the Perfumery Department, many problems will arise, besides those that I have mentioned here, where a little simple arithmetic can be of great assistance. In the same way that perfumers would be well advised never to totally abandon balance work, so they will gain by exercising their mathematical skills. All perfumers wish to design that magnificent winner that will astound the industry, Perhaps a little math will help to achieve this goal.

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Create a Sandalwood Perfume, Win a Trip to Australia

The American Society of Perfumers (ASP) and TFS Corporation have launched a global competition that gives perfumers the chance to win a trip to Australia by creating a fragrance using TFS sustainable, Australian-grown Indian sandalwood (Santalum album).

Odor Properties of 1-(p-Alkyl)Phenylethanols and Their Esters

All the substances have, principally, similar odor characters, possessing fruity, flowery, woody, penetrant odor notes with minor rotten, moldy notes. Other characteristic notes were observed in some compounds. Odor thresholds show mostly medium values, suitable for application in perfumery products.

Synthesis and odor characteristics of some analogs of acyclic sesquiterpenoids

In summary, it could be stated that the crucial factors affecting the odor of the compounds under investigation are the carbon chain structures and type of functional groups. These observations confirm Beets’ thesis that “the profile of a molecule with an easily accessible functional group is responsible for the odor type.

Four Decades as a Perfumer-Comments by a Contrarious Curmudgeon

Four Decades of Perfumery--in English, that means forty years—where have we progressed, where have we retrogressed, and where have we reinvented the wheel? I propose to present not only a rear mirror view of perfumery in comparison with what it is today, but I’d also like to comment on some of our current practices, foibles and discombobulations.

Aroma Chemicals and Citrus Oils

Natural citrus oils cannot be reconstituted (substituted) by compounding aroma chemicals for three reasons: (1) Citrus oils are complex mixtures, up to 300 chemicals of which many are unknown. (2) If they are known, many are not commercially available. (3) Individual constituents with asymmetric carbon atoms, mostly are optically active, A lot of aroma chemicals are not. On the other hand, aroma chemicals with citrusy odors deserve their own place for compounds in functional perfumery, mainly for stability reasons.

Perfumers at work: 4 and 5

Four questions with drom’s Barbara Zoebelein and her five picks for fragrance’s future. drom perfumer Barbara Zoebelein is the recipient of a 2006 FiFi award (men’s private label/direct sell category) for Avon’s today TOMORROW always for Men. We wondered what makes an award winning perfumer, so we recently asked her about her art, challenges and a prescription for this ailing category: artistry, craft and risk-taking.

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