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Section: Fragrance > Fine Fragrance

Fragrance: “A Celebration of Scentsations”

34th Annual Symposium of The American Society of Perfumers

Four Decades as a Perfumer-Comments by a Contrarious Curmudgeon

Four Decades of Perfumery--in English, that means forty years—where have we progressed, where have we retrogressed, and where have we reinvented the wheel? I propose to present not only a rear mirror view of perfumery in comparison with what it is today, but I’d also like to comment on some of our current practices, foibles and discombobulations.

The Creative Perfumery Competition Sponsored by BASF AG

The competition was based on the new aroma chemical “Jasmorange” from BASF AG. Perfumers were invited to create a perfumery specialty base using a minimum of 1% Jasmorange with up to nine additional perfumery materials to create a perfumery accord that would have wide utility in perfume compositions for a wide variety of products.

The Creative Perfumery Competition

The second Creative Perfumery Competition produced entries from 18 countries, and an excellect response from perfumers. The competition was based on the use of the aroma chemical Pseudojasmone from Emery Chemicals, to be used at a minimum level of 2.5%.

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Aroma Chemical Usage Trends In Modern Perfumery

The better creative perfumers give the lower priced fragrances a quality and uniqueness by adding more “exotic” intensely odored specialty products which, although of higher price, offer excellent strength to cost ratio. These materials, whether aroma chemical, or natural product, frequently comprise 80% or more of the total number of ingredients in a fragrance. In the case of fine fragrances, they often contribute the major part of the total cost. Such ingredients are beyond the scope of this paper, but will be the subject of a future article.

Steady Progress in China’s Aromatics Industry

China’s perfumery industry is among the nation's fastest growing sectors. The Chinese factories need to consolidate and bring in foreign technology and management skills to upgrade their production. To raise production and improve quality, the country’s leading perfumeries are seeking funds and technology from other countries.

The Overdose

The overdose is thereto glorify a perfume. The perfumer must feel free in the presence of his source materials, and not feel limited to a particular concentration of a product in his formula, under the delusion that one does not exceed certain known limits that have been set by successful perfumes.

The Relation of Structure and Odor in Substituted Cyclohexanols

All of the current theories lack a biochemical foundation and knowledge of the true geometry of the receptor site in the olfactory bulbus. This and a still unexplained fact that not only diverse chemical structures but also analogues of a similar basic structure sometimes smell quite differently is one of tbe reasons we still need more information about the correlations between different chemical structures and their odor perceptions.

Continuous Process for Oakmoss Extraction

Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri L. Ach.), along with other tree mosses, is among the most voluminous botanicals which are solvent extracted for use in perfumes. These extracts are manufactured with heavy labor costs. Large quantities of solvent have to be circulated and evaporated. This requires high energy costs. Therefore, there is a place for a quicker continuous automated process.

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Spice Notes in Perfumery

It can be said in a general sense that anything we add for flavor or fragrance value could be construed as a spice. This study examines many of the more common spices that one would find on a good supermarket spice rack as well as some that are relatively obscure.

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Fragrance Marketing: Translating Creativity into Success

Our next topic is a very intriguing one. Which is more important to the success of a fragrance ?... The skills of the creative perfumer, the skills of the marketing department, or, are they equally important?

Computerized Laboratory Mixing Station for Perfume Oils

A very high qualiiy standard is possible through automation. This means low costs. This is the basis for success in an ever stronger competitive market.

Cumin

Cumin absolute has an intense, exciting, intricate fragrance profile reminiscent of the crushed spice with a “richer, true-to- nature cumin seed character” than the diffusive volatile oil. When flavor and perfumery compositions require a “green spicy” touch, traces of the absolute are indispensable.

Creation Perspectives Perfumery in the Year of 2000

A number of predictions have been here, highlighting the perception-oriented dimensions. It can be predicted that perfumers will consider habituation effects which will become the subject of sophisticated measurements and he more thoroughly understood, and that they will accordingly create for dynamic perfume release.

The Essence of Creativity

Creativity is the essence of our work. But it is difficult to explain because it is essentially subconscious.

Broom (Genêt) in Perfumery

Natural genêt flower oil and synthetic genêt compounds have been used to a greater extent in perfumery until the middle of this century. Both genêt absolute and concrete of French and Italian origin are commercially available, and they remain valuable perfumer materials.

Synthesis and Odor Characteristics of Some Cyclopentane Derivatives

In this work we present the synthesis and odor characteristics of some cyclopentane derivatives. Compounds described in this paper can be considered as cyclic analogues of geraniol, citronellol, dihydrocitronellol and their derivatives.

Dynascone: The Ultimate Captive

In 1973, isolation and structure elucidation by NMR and MS showed this substance to be the hitherto unknown unsaturated ketone 2, having the same molecular formula as α-damascone but possessing a different molecular structure; this ketone has been named α-Dynascone.

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