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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance > Fine Fragrance

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Scent & Spirit: Poisons, Potions and Perfumes

Danger and beauty have always gone hand-in-hand—or in this case, nose-in-heart—when it comes to some of the world’s most poisonous flowers. Here, we take a historical sniff at how oleander, datura and belladonna among others have been used for centuries in fragranced potions; with recent perfumers paying homage to the flowers’ alluring powers in the niche fragrance scene.

Creation of new perfume

Practical Perfumery: The Grammar of Perfumery

The topic of how to structure a perfume is not often covered in literature, and so for many it seems an ill-defined process full of randomly chosen materials and proportions.

A Primer on Perfuming Polymers

This primer will attempt to cover, as painlessly as possible, some basic polymer physics and volubility theory and then show how this knowledge can be applied in general and for a specific example

The dsm-firmenich principal perfumer shares their journey to fragrance and their experiences during tenure.

Principal Perfumer Gabriela Chelariu Shares Projects Wins & Industry Insights

The dsm-firmenich principal perfumer shares their journey to fragrance and their experiences during tenure.

Perfumer POV: An Opportunity to Reinvent the Fragrance Creation Process

Perfumers will have to collaborate and work hand in hand with R&D to innovate and find new notes to replace the restricted and/or banned ones; otherwise they may be forced to try to compose new melodies on a piano missing half the keys.

Perfumes—and Perfumery

The perfume industry can generally be divided into three categories but without well-defined boundaries: prestige perfumery (French, American and Japanese), mass market alcoholic perfumery and non-alcoholic perfumery. A fourth category could be food flavors. Although they are not perfumery, they are nevertheless related to perfumery and are manufactured by the same firms.

Odor Properties of 1-(p-Alkyl)Phenylethanols and Their Esters

All the substances have, principally, similar odor characters, possessing fruity, flowery, woody, penetrant odor notes with minor rotten, moldy notes. Other characteristic notes were observed in some compounds. Odor thresholds show mostly medium values, suitable for application in perfumery products.

Long used in dining and confectionery, the stimulants are finding their way into fine fragrance.

Trigeminal’s Perfumery Potential

Long used in dining and confectionery, the stimulants are finding their way into fine fragrance.

Creative process in perfumery

The process involved in the creation of a fragrance are many, complex, and terribly abstract. I would like to share with you my notions about how a perfume is created, primarily from the vantage point of what goes on in the perfumer's head. What are the sources of inspiration to the perfumer? How does a fragrance develop from concept to finished creation?

Para-Hydroxy Phenyl Butanone

The organoleptic impression of this chemical is so specific (somewhat like vanillin’s relationship to vanilla), that most of us refer to this material by its functionally derived name raspberry ketone. Thus shall it be referred to throughout this review.

Claude Grison, Ph.D., scientific director, BioInspir, and research director, French National Centre for Scientific Research (CNRS)

Cosmetic Victories Profile: Claude Grison, Ph.D., on Ecocatalysts for Sustainable Fragrances

In this interview, Claude Grison, Ph.D., describes BioInspir's invention of ecocatalysis: a new branch of sustainable chemistry based on the use of plant-based catalysts for green and innovative organic synthesis.

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Lavender: a Perfumer's Perspective

Perfumers awaken human emotion through scent, often triggering strong memories tied to loved ones, the carefree happiness of childhood and rediscovery. For Givaudan senior perfumer Marypierre Julien, lavender is one of those ingredients.

The Physiologist and the Perfumer

An exchange of ideas between Prof. Andre Hollev of the University Claude Bernard, and Vice-President of E.C.R.O., and Edmond Roudnitska, Art et Parfum.

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Art of perfumery: Exposing the Perfumer

What it means to be a perfumer in the information age and the need to communicate with consumers. According to Merriam-Webster’s online dictionary, a perfumer is defined as “one who makes or sells perfumes.” This rather simplistic definition, circa 1580, offers no insight into what a perfumer actually does.

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Profiles in Perfumery: “I’m an Indie”

Mandy Aftel’s “do-it-yourself” philosophy and focus on natural perfumery have resulted in a successful, unconventional fragrance career. Vanity Fair magazine has called her the “Angel of Alchemy,” but what Mandy Aftel, founder of Aftelier Perfumes, does is more simply explained. She makes scents for solid and liquid perfumes, face and body care products, custom perfumes, and more.

Company Training of Perfumers—Part II

In the first part of this series, we described methods of selecting suitable candidates for perfumery training and how to test their abilities. This part is devoted to the preliminary training and testing of the trainee

Natural materials and the practicing perfumer

I would like to encourage continued research into the chemistry of natural materials. Often fascinating new chemicals can be produced directly by isolation from essential oils, or by further chemical processing of these isolates. Despite legislative difficulties, this work should be continued apace. Our growth and future lies here.

Company Training of Perfumers —Part 1

The system presented in this series of articles is nothing revolutionary. It was developed as a three and a half year period of basic perfumery training including individual selection for creative work, control laboratories and other fragrance evacuation groups. The method was developed by our staff based on experience, published training sytsems of known training centers and literature studies of books and papers written by famous perfumers.

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