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Type: Article

Section: Fragrance > Regulatory & Research

International Perfume Standards Program

In summary, we determined that it was necessary to have a fresh fragrance oil quality control standard representative of the quality of oil available in any given overseas location. We recognize that ensuring worldwide quality required a central location to evaluate and approve the initial samples of oils before being purchased around the world. Once an initial quality was determined, it was necessary to assure that each location had access to a fresh quality control standard representing this quality. A procedure was then set up to assure annual replacement of quality control standards.

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Progress in Essential Oils: Lemon Verbena Oil

This month's column discusses the chemical composition of lemon verbena oil.

Progress in Essential Oils: Clary Sage Oil

The author discusses the chemical components of clary sage oil.

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Progress in Essential Oils: Sweet Fennel Oil and Extract

In this column, Brian M. Lawrence reviews the composition of sweet fennel oil and extract as found by various researchers. For example, a commercial sample of sweet fennel oil was screened for its anti-platelet activity by Tognolini et al. (2006) and Guerini et al. (2006) using GC-FID and GC/MS. Results are reported herein.

Essential Oil Essential Oil Research and Symposia 1969-1989

The time is ripe, perhaps, to review the development which has taken place since the Essential Oil Symposium started in 1969—and try to see a little ahead. The aims of the symposia should be as before: namely, to bring together scientists who are interested in all aspects of essential oil research, for discussions of common problems and presentation of their results, to the benefit of essential oil research in general.

Progress in Essential Oils

Sage oil and Wild African Sage Oil.

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Authentication of Natural Peppermint Oil

This article explores the application of carbon-14 testing as a method to authenticate naturally sourced peppermint oil and screen for adulteration.

Pattern Recognition Methods for Discrimination of Essential Oils (Rose Oils) by Their Gas Chromatograms

It is possible to distinguish between essential oils of the same type and their mixtures by analysing their gas chromatograms using a pattern recognition method.

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Is Cineole Detrimental to TeaTree Oil?

This paper evaluates the claims about cineole in tea tree oil and reviews the results of recent skin irritancy and bioactivity investigations which show that cineole is neither an irritant nor an antagonist.

Material Review: Clary Sage Oils

Variation in composition and enantiomeric analyses of commercial vs. new Kashmir clary sage oils. Commercial clary sage oils were analyzed along with a newly available Kashmir oil (Himalayan Foothills Oils, Srinagar, India). All of the oils were high in linalool (14.7–25.1%) and linalyl acetate (55.0–72.4%).

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Pink Pepper Fruit and Leaf Oils

This month's column discusses the chemical composition of pink pepper fruit and leaf oils.

Understanding this analytical method and its role in analyzing botanicals.

HPTLC Fingerprinting for Essential Oil Authenticity

Understanding this analytical method and its role in analyzing botanicals.

Update on ISO for Essential Oils

The latest ISO essential oil standards for clary sage, lavender and lavandin.

Material review: Kashmir Lavender Oil

A comparison of new Kashmir lavender oils with commercial lavender oils.

Process to Formulate Hypoallergenic Jasmin Oil

We must also turn our attention to problems of safety in fragrance materials other than allergenicity; we must consider dermal irritation and phototoxicity as well. Finally, I have to say that formulation of safe fragrance materials cannot be accomplished by cosmetic companies alone. The cooperation of perfumers, perfume companies and such organizations as RIFM (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials) and IFRA (International Fragrance Association) is sure to accomplish this goal.

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Turkish Rose Oil Research: Recent Results

ose oil was produced by hydrodistillation from fresh flowers of Rosa damascena Miller. (Turkey and Bulgaria are the two main producers of this precious material.) Results of the analysis of Turkish rose oil produced by the Gülbirlik Cooperative in the past 16 years are provided in this article.

Aromatherapy: Do Essential Oils Have Therapeutic Properties?

A pleasant odor has always been, and still is, an important factor for people to feel good, and feeling well is synonymous with good health. Therefore, we can conclude that all substances which are able to create a certain amount of well-being and well-feeling possess therapeutic properties and, therefore, can be called therapeutic agents.

New compounds with small rings in essential oils

Despite the continuing discovery of new synthetic fragrance raw materials, essential oils still remain the other half of the foundation of perfumery. Consequently, the analysis of essential oils is still very much of interest, as is illustrated by the excellent series of articles by Lawrence in this journal. We now wish to report a number of products containing small (three-, four-, and five-membered) rings, most of which are found for the first time in essential oils. These products were isolated by chemical group separation, liquid and gas chromatography, whereupon the structures were determined by mass, infrared and NMR spectroscopy. All structures were confirmed by synthesis. The essential oils used were obtained from regular commercial sources.

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