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By: P&F Magazine
Posted: January 8, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of P&F magazine.
page 3 of 3
During the process, she adds, "[The students] were not afraid to go further, to try ingredients. There were no limits on price, no constraints. It was like a game. They pushed us to overdose ingredients."
During their second meeting, Labbe showed Leclere a range of materials and accords to gauge the designer’s reactions. "I presented her one accord around lily, which to me suggests the Madonna and the woman with its depth and voluptuousness. [Leclere] chose it because of its spicy feeling and also because of green notes. She really wanted to work around that accord."
From there, they chose ingredients in the lab to instigate contrasts, including spiciness. "We went with pimento," says Labbe. "Lily with pimento is very interesting." In this case, the perfumer employed a higher dose of pimento than ever before. "Then we added a drop of blackcurrant for blood—but in a funny way," she adds. "And then the skin was [suggested] with masculine leather."
From this trinity of accords, Labbe dosed a number of materials in several variations to produce the L’Un Femme mods. The final fragrance was created over the course of about three meetings. Labbe says, "It’s a woody, sensual accord—warm sensuality."