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FMA Ponders Green Fragrances: a Balancing Act

Contact Author Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
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This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in P&F Magazine. The full content is not currently available online.

During the Fragrance Materials Association’s (FMA) fall workshop on green fragrances, there was a general agreement among the presenters that consumer demand for all things green—both strictly and loosely defined—is booming. It was in discussing the implications of this demand that dissonance among stakeholders—consumers, NGOs and industry—took shape.

The Boom

When it comes to natural, green and sustainability, consumers have been faced with vague and competing marketing claims. A Yakkelovich study cited by Daniel Fabricant, vice president of scientific and regulatory affairs for the Natural Products Association (NPA), reports that 78% of American women believe natural personal care is currently regulated or don’t know if it is. Ninety-seven percent think it should be. Meanwhile, two-thirds of American women believe a personal care product labeled natural should contain, at a minimum, 95% natural ingredients. In this context, Hee Jeong Son, corporate vice president of marketing, Belmay, outlined the rise of all things green in the fragrance and personal care industry.

Formulation, she noted, is a key hurdle. "It’s a big challenge for the fragrance industry because from a creativity point of view perfumers are limited as to the palette of ingredients they can use. Just because they’re organic doesn’t mitigate them from regular safety [requirements]. In terms of quality, because they’re unaltered, they change from batch to batch so [sometimes] we have to ask our clients to buy entire stocks of an ingredient to make sure it will remain the same within their products."


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