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Woody Notes in Perfumery: Patchouli in Fragrances, Part II

By: Danute Pajaujis Anonis
Posted: September 10, 2007, from the September 2007 issue of P&F magazine.

In Part I (Perfumer & Flavorist magazine, v 31 no. 11, 2006; page 36), the botanical origin of patchouli, the mode of production, patchouli oil types, patchouli composition and pertaining aroma chemicals were discussed.* This article will cover the application of patchouli to fragrances. Patchouli has points in common with camphor, cedarwood, vetiver, calamus, oakmoss and orris.

The Extract No. 289 formula is an example of an old-fashioned patchouli perfume type that was popular in Europe many years ago. However, it long remained a popular export item to South America. Before World War II, Germans innovated perfumes without alcohol. The perfume oils were dissolved in diethyl phthalate, castor oil or other solvents.

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