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Emotion and Successful Fragrance Formulation

In a presentation during GCI magazine’s "Fragrance Business 2007," Marcy Fisher (vice president of marketing, cosmetics, Liz Claiborne) offered insights into the formulation of the Juicy Couture fragrance and how Juicy continues to use emotional connection to extend its brand … to pets?

Fisher explained that the Juicy Couture project team started with a brief characterized by “girly elegance and fun, fun, fun.” Perfumer Harry Fremont (Firmenich) evolved the scent through hundreds of variations. “He was truly unstoppable,” said Fischer, noting that Fremont continuously had new ideas that were better and better.

Fisher described the fragrance’s it moment like this: “At one point we were really close to finalizing the fragrance and we just couldn’t get there. So, finally, we were in this room and we said to Harry, ‘It really needs that something. It needs that thrill when you find that incredible pair of shoes and you have to have them.’ And then Harry said, ‘Oh, yeah, I know what it needs.’

“Fragrance is about an emotion, and how do we create that?” Fisher answered her own question with some wisdom she has picked up along the way. “Don’t tell the perfumers, ‘Oh, it’s got to have a little less jasmine, a little more patchouli.’ Talk to them about how you want people to feel, what you want this fragrance to say.”

The sweet, fruity-floral result, Juicy Couture, includes notes of watermelon, mandarin, marigold, tuberose absolute, vanilla and patchouli.

The Juicy Couture brand, attempting to cut through all the clutter, has already used emotional connections with consumers to expand its brand once again, this time to pets. “People are spending a tremendous amount on pet care,” said Fisher, introducing Juicy Critture Pets. Art Spiro (president of fragrance and cosmetics at Liz Claiborne) then spoke up, explaining that pet owners go to great lengths to pamper their pets, such as going to Whole Foods to fetch organic chicken for their dogs. Then Fisher cited a most telling study that found that 67% or respondents felt that their pets listened to them more than their spouses.

In this context, the label’s products—Pawfum, Shampooch, Coif Fur conditioner and Doggy House Spray—don’t seem so ridiculous. And of course the scents are animal-safe, employing low fragrance levels.

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