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By: P&F Magazine
Posted: January 8, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of P&F magazine.
page 2 of 3
"The idea was to begin working with the odor of skin," says Flipo. She achieved this effect in part with a musky accord. In addition, she worked to evoke the boxing ring with a Tiger Balsam accord and an element that suggested the smell of a T-shirt fresh out of the washing machine, which imparted a wetness and impact of fabric softener. What Flipo found most interesting was the play between the Tiger Balsam elements and skinlike impressions. Along the way, she showed Martin the technical process of formulation, dosing and revision, even evaluating various qualities of styrax.
In the end, the fragrance was created using just 13 ingredients. "I would describe it as extremely feminine with a feeling of hot spices and leather," she says. "I was obliged to find something new, something strong, something memorable. It was a great moment."
Designer Cyrielle Leclere’s designs are playful, with fantastical, futuristic touches such as a veil and oversized shoulder pads. At the time of her first meeting with Labbe, the student did not wear perfume, though she proved to be a natural nose. "Her mother is a good cook," says Labbe, "so I think she already knew a lot of ingredients through her own experience. It was really a lot of respect and exchange."
During their first meeting, Leclere presented Labbe with contradictory images, such as the Virgin Mary and bare flesh. "The name of her collection was L’Un Femme," says Labbe. "She was playing with all the contrasts of the woman—the virgin or the woman as an object."
The project that emerged, gathered a number of disparate elements. Labbe worked to inject the scent with impressions of holiness, sacredness, violence and blood, and carnality. "The briefing with Cryielle [called for] a perfume like a secret medicine for all the different subsets of the woman. There was something violent as well, but it was not frightening. It was violence with a lot of aestheticism and some sense of humor."