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Patchouly Oil, Absolute and Aroma chemicals: Part I

Danute Pajaujis Anonis (Chemist Perfumer)

In an early classification of odors done by Rimmel, the odor of patchouli was classified in the camphor group. In the 1950s, Cerbelaud described the odor of patchouli as “heavy, vibrant with musty, herbaceous and camphoraceous notes, warm and lasting.”

Today, the odor description and classification have changed. Now, various types of processed patchouli oils are available, and patchouli is listed by suppliers among woody materials. Both researchers and perfumers concur, considering patchouli to be in the woody family of odors.

Other topics covered:

  • botanical origin of patchouli (Pogostemon cablin Benth.)
  • mode of production, yield and type of oil
  • patchouli oil composition
  • aroma chemicals of woody, patchouli and multifaceted odors (examples: Andrane, Piconia, Mahagonat, Patchomint, Orivone, etc.)
This is only an excerpt of the full article that appeared in P&F Magazine. The full content is not currently available online.

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