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4 Hot Topics in Perfumery
Posted: October 12, 2007
This year’s symposium of the American Society of Perfumers provided an opportunity for a number of fragrance executives and consultants to speak out on a wide range of hot topics in the fragrance industry.
1. This is a Megatrend: Green Perfumery
“This is a megatrend,” said Yves Calderone (Limited Brands), when asked about the move towards naturals and organics in fragrance creation. “It offers [the industry] an incredible opportunity to think of ways to innovate in this area. Consumers clearly want it. It’s not just about fragrances. It’s about ethical sourcing, fair trade and a larger kind of green movement.
Calderone was careful, however, to say that companies cannot get too far out ahead of the consumer when it comes to “green.” “The consumer … is not willing to trade off in any way. They want [a product that] is doing good things for the environment, but will not trade off on aesthetics, performance or things like that … We’re going after the 95% of consumers that want to be 5% green, rather than the 5% that want to be 95% green.” In short, successful green scents must be mainstream products.
Panelists went on to note that natural and organic scents would largely be the domain of hand care products and the like, as opposed to fine fragrance, due to the limited palette of naturals. In addition, it was noted that green isn’t always "natural." In some cases, the use of synthetics avoids depletion of plant species, such as sandalwood. In addition, the changing environment can affect the supply stream of necessary natural raw materials.