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Creating a Partnership Between Fragrance and Cosmetic Actives

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What would it mean to the fragrance houses if they tapped into the cosmetic actives market? What would this mean for the creation of differentiating innovations and multifunctional offerings? What these new capabilities signal about the future of the industry? 

“Fragrance is about that immediate effect…it’s a matter of perception or emotion. ... Cosmetics are about performance. Its perception is about visible results over time and scientific proof.” Frédérique Lafosse, head of active beauty at Givaudan

Rachel Grabenhofer, scientific acquisitions editor at Allured Business Media, and a panel of industry experts took on these questions during the third day of the 2016 World Perfumery Congress at the fragrance and cosmetics seminar. 

Two Peas in a Pod? 

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“The beauty and cosmetics industry is driven by innovation,” said Eder Leopoldo Ramos, global president of cosmetic ingredients at Symrise AG. “Fragrance encapsulates that same drive.” 

Antonio Lara, president and CEO at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., agreed that it only seems natural that the fragrance and cosmetic industries work together. “There would definitely be new opportunities generated over a period of time,” he added. 

While the two industries share a common goal of innovation, Frédérique Lafosse, head of active beauty at Givaudan, pointed out that they are still different. “Fragrance is about that immediate effect…it’s a matter of perception or emotion,” she said. “Cosmetics are about performance. Its perception is about visible results over time and scientific proof.” 

Give Fragrance Multi-purpose

When asked if fragrance could potentially enhance cosmetics with another addition like a preservative, Lafosse wasn’t sure it would be the solution the cosmetics industry was looking for. “Fragrance might provide a different solution for a preservative in a product, but that doesn’t mean it’s the answer the industry wants,” she added. 

Lara shared that where the two industries could work together is with their stories, especially sustainability. “Fragrance is known for being a waste-user industry,” he said. “We might be able to take waste from cosmetics and use it as a raw material for fragrance." 

“New technologies could lead to new discoveries…new ways to design alternatives that would help us to be more sustainable,” Lafosse added. 

“So, it comes back around to innovation,” Ramos said. “We look at one active ingredient or a molecule, and how it can encapsulate both industries." 

Look for complete 2016 World Perfumery Congress coverage in the 2016 September Perfumer & Flavorist magazine