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Clearing the Air: In Praise of Synthetics Part 2

Posted: January 22, 2008

page 2 of 3

There are many different facets to the rose ketones. First of all they are all rosy, but they can also be fruity (like plums, berries, apples and black currant), herbaceous, minty and tobacco. It just all depends on the context in which they are used. When I use these materials I’ll often get a secondary scent that I didn’t necessarily intend but that is usually really unique. I enjoy that there is still a sense of unpredictability using these ingredients because of the way they blend with the other components in a fragrance.

P&Fnow: Can you please give a few examples of scents that exploit synthetics particularly well?

Sims: You could go all the way back to Chanel No. 5 with the use of aliphatic aldehydes. That’s probably one of the first fragrances that used aliphatic aldehydes and was tremendously successful. One of our favorites is the Bulgari collection of fragrances. It’s just a beautiful line that is based primarily on synthetics. For example, almost 50% of the formulation for Omnia is composed of musks. They are blended beautifully with other woody notes. Although it smells very sophisticated and complex, it is in fact a very simple formula.

Garlick: There’s nothing “synthetic” about the smell of Bulgari’s fragrances. A customer would not say that it smells synthetic. The fragrances are elegant and beautifully balanced. They are a great demonstration of how you can create with modern synthetics.

P&Fnow: Can you please give a few examples of how synthetics and naturals might be employed in tandem to construct a winning fragrance?