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Raw Material Report: Editing Nature

By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Posted: May 14, 2008, from the June 2008 issue of P&F magazine.

“Naturals are an integral part of our perfumers’ creations,” says Judith Gross, IFF’s global director of fragrance innovation. “The company has seen a notable shift to true luxury. The desire for perfumers to use sought-after raw materials, especially naturals, continues to increase.”

One of the key players behind the production of new and refined naturals is Bernard Toulemonde, general manager of IFF’s naturals facility Laboratoire Monique Rémy (LMR). “We can take a rose essence or a patchouli essence and remove components to accentuate the other facets of the scent,” Toulemonde explains. “Today we are able to produce materials that are pure, fully natural— but not necessarily containing all the nature. This is our specialty.” The company currently produces materials from such sources as blackcurrant from Burgundy, France; orris from Tuscany, Italy and Provence, France; and rose centifolia and geranium from Grasse, France.

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