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Fine Fragrance
New in Fine Fragrance (page 3 of 5)
Jun 15, 2009 | 10:54 AM CDT
Orris: A Star of Inspiration
By: Pierre-Jean Hellivan, Charabot
An evocative natural ingredient with roots in artistic and olfactive history.
May 12, 2009 | 03:42 PM CDT
Fragrance in Good Times and Bad
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Givaudan’s Michael Carlos on how the economic crisis could reshape the industry.
Apr 10, 2009 | 01:53 PM CDT
Immortelle’s Sustainable Resurgence
By: Pierre-Jean Hellivan, Charabot
New research into the chemistry and application of this “everlasting” natural.
Apr 10, 2009 | 01:31 PM CDT
Comparing Notes: Woody Notes and Perfumery Puzzles
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
A discussion with perfumers David Apel and Maurice Roucel.
Mar 18, 2009 | 11:18 AM CDT
Comparing Notes: Formulating with Coumarin, Sandalwood and Ethyl Linalool
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured
An extended conversation with fine fragrance perfumers Kevin Verspoor and Pierre Gueros.
Oct 20, 2008 | 01:12 PM CDT
Fragrance Creation: Finding Signature
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Perfumer Cecile Krakower discusses olfactive identity, the complexities of the development process and decoding fragrance vocabularies
Mane perfumer Cecile Krakower laughs when asked if she has an olfactive signature. “I’ve been told that all of my fragrances are very textural,” she says. “I find it funny that people can recognize [my scents.]” For example, she says, “I work on making [woody fragrances] so soft and silky that they feel like just another layer of skin.”
The New York-based French ex-patriot, whose portfolio includes Vertigo (Vertigo Parfums) and Yu (Mane), notes that her relationship to fragrances is less about analyzing each component material than it is about the textures and feelings they impart. “I like it when something is ‘plump.’ I’m very sensitive to that.” And though she strongly disliked fruity notes when she first entered the industry, she has steadily gained an appreciation for renditions of edible concepts such as pear—so much so that they are now part of her signature. “I like juicy scents—the ‘velvet’ feel of a peach, the fresh and watery texture of a litchi. Those sensations are amazing.”
Sep 11, 2008 | 11:33 AM CDT
F&F Profiles: The Scent Archivist
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
WFFC honoree Ruth Sutcliffe pulls back the curtain on her working process and rich olfactive memory. Sometimes a good memory is the key to a successful fine fragrance. Last year, as she was working on McGraw by Tim McGraw, Coty’s senior director of international fragrance development, Ruth Sutcliffe, recalled a demo fragrance she’d smelled back in 2005.
Apr 22, 2008 | 10:32 AM CDT
An Air Sculptor in His Own Words
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel discusses his recent “air sculptures,” special raw materials, the creative process and collaborative relationships. In the secretive, under-the-radar profession of perfumery, IFF’s Christophe Laudamiel stands out. This high-profile perfumer has undertaken a number of attention-grabbing projects and speaking engagements, a break from the stereotypical “invisible” nose.
Feb 20, 2008 | 03:02 PM CST
F&F Q&A: The Stories are in the Juices
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
A talk with The Perfect Scent author Chandler Burr. When we asked Chandler Burr what interested him about perfume as a subject, he simply said, “It’s the greatest underappreciated art in the world.” And we agree.
Oct 26, 2007 | 02:36 PM CDT
Topics in Perfumery: Magnolia and Lily of the Valley
By: Arcadi Boix Camps
A continuing meditation on the art, craft, materials and techniques of fragrance creation. I have thought quite often that I am lucky because I live on the outskirts of Barcelona. Visitors believe that Barcelona is very beautiful—and it really is—but unfortunately most people just visit downtown.