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Comparing Notes: Carlos Benaim, Pascal Gaurin and Laurent Le Guernec

By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Posted: August 17, 2009, from the September 2009 issue of P&F magazine.

It takes about 350 kg of flowers, harvested between April and October in Madurai,India, to produce 550 g of Laboratoire Monique Remy’s (LMR)a contemporary take on jasmine sambac. IFF perfumer Pascal Gaurin says that this material imparts more green and leafy notes than other sambac varieties. The overall impression, he adds, is one of luxury. “

To me,” says perfumer Carlos Benaim, “it’s much more modern than the jasmine absolute we know from the past. It doesn’t have the animal note. It’s much more creamy, green, very happy and explosive in a way, as a note. I use it in a lot of my creations, starting with Pure Poison (Dior)[created in collaboration with Olivier Polge and Dominique Ropion], Armani Code for women [with Olivier Polge and Dominique Ropion], Flowerbomb [with Domitille Bertier and Olivier Polge] and many other things I’ve done.” In a composition, says Benaim, “It brings a lot of color, naturalness ... [when] you have something where you have a lot of synthetic ingredients and you need to have a touch of velvety feeling, a flowery feeling.”

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