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By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Posted: January 8, 2009, from the January 2009 issue of P&F magazine.
Presented with the swatch that would inspire Bill Blass Couture 7, Delphine Jelk was struck by its sense of spontaneity: "So I went to citrus, very sparkling."
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"I saw some poppies and peonies," says Garnuch, who titled her demo Sky Poppy. The scent is designed, she explains, to open like a flower, starting off fresh and sophisticated opening onto a burst of floral impressions.
Guéros’ Wild Orchid demo, meanwhile, has a bottom note of bamboo that stimulates the stemlike quality of a fresh-cut flower, imparting a mild, purely floral impression.
Finally, Jelk’s Happy Peony scent plays with floral and fruity impressions. "I made it a powdery flower, a bit like a violet and rose," she explains. "Peony smells somewhere between rose and muguet, but I wanted something more sophisticated than muguet. It’s also very fruity. I wanted to have a berry quality." Jelk toyed with a raspberry quality, while also using green notes and very musky base, which mixed with the violet to accomplish the scent’s powdery character. "Musks and red fruits match very well," she says, citing L’Artisan Parfumeurs’ Mûre et Musc. "For me it is almost blackberry," she says of Happy Peony. "It’s more interesting and sophisticated than [just] fruity notes. It’s really to enhance the flower. It’s almost cassis, but without the cat pee."