Creation/Application:
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Creation/Application
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Nov 12, 2008 | 04:40 PM CST
Home Fragrance: Air Care in the US Market
By: Euromonitor International
The current state of the air care market and the trends shaping it in the years to come
US consumers are drawn to air care for several reasons. Busy lifestyles translate into less cleaning at home, but consumers still want a home that smells fresh.
Nov 12, 2008 | 04:28 PM CST
The Changing Role of Fragrance in Personal Washes
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Formulating fragrance in personal washes to communicate a product’s benefits and reinforce the brand
In the crowded personal care market, it is necessary for a product to offer multiple benefits to stand apart and succeed. This means that for personal washes it is no longer just about the cleansing properties; a product must deliver more in both benefits and fragrance.
Oct 20, 2008 | 01:12 PM CDT
Fragrance Creation: Finding Signature
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Perfumer Cecile Krakower discusses olfactive identity, the complexities of the development process and decoding fragrance vocabularies
Mane perfumer Cecile Krakower laughs when asked if she has an olfactive signature. “I’ve been told that all of my fragrances are very textural,” she says. “I find it funny that people can recognize [my scents.]” For example, she says, “I work on making [woody fragrances] so soft and silky that they feel like just another layer of skin.”
The New York-based French ex-patriot, whose portfolio includes Vertigo (Vertigo Parfums) and Yu (Mane), notes that her relationship to fragrances is less about analyzing each component material than it is about the textures and feelings they impart. “I like it when something is ‘plump.’ I’m very sensitive to that.” And though she strongly disliked fruity notes when she first entered the industry, she has steadily gained an appreciation for renditions of edible concepts such as pear—so much so that they are now part of her signature. “I like juicy scents—the ‘velvet’ feel of a peach, the fresh and watery texture of a litchi. Those sensations are amazing.”
Oct 20, 2008 | 12:47 PM CDT
ScentWorld 2008 Report: Optimizing Consumer Experience through Fragrance
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Exploring the role of fragrance in marketing and branding
Fragrances created for brands’ retail and other environments don’t have to be the olfactive equivalent of Muzak. Rather than blanket a space with a generic scent, perfumers, fragrance house experts and brand specialists are partnering to create innovative signature scents that transmit cues about brand personality, identity and position within the competitive landscape. In an age in which consumers are constantly bombarded with brand messages, scent presents an underutilized avenue for cutting through the noise.
At the recent ScentWorld conference in New York sponsored by the Scent Marketing Institute, a range of speakers—including perfumers, manufacturers, sensory scientists and branding experts—discussed scent’s role in branding and marketing. “We are responding to the explosive growth of scent marketing across a wide range of industries,” says the Institute’s founder Harald Vogt.
Sep 12, 2008 | 01:42 PM CDT
Multidimensional Visualization of Physical and Perceptual Data Leading to a Creative Approach in Fragrance Development
By: Christine Vuilleumier, Matthijs van de Waal, H…
Perfumers are being increasingly challenged to improve the performance of their formulations. As well as being pleasant, fragrances have to comply with growing requests for stability, biodegradability and uniqueness. Other factors render the work of the perfumers difficult, such as the specific smell of the non-perfumed substrate or the need to cover unpleasant odors.
Sep 12, 2008 | 01:38 PM CDT
Rational Odorant Design: Fantasy or Feasibility?
By: Charles Sell, Givaudan
Exploring the two approaches to rational odor design and the possibilities of each. Why do we strive for rational design of odorants? Since the birth of synthetic organic chemistry in the mid-19th century, fragrance chemists have sought to design and produce fragrance ingredients to supplement those obtained from plant (and formerly animal) sources.
Sep 11, 2008 | 11:33 AM CDT
F&F Profiles: The Scent Archivist
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
WFFC honoree Ruth Sutcliffe pulls back the curtain on her working process and rich olfactive memory. Sometimes a good memory is the key to a successful fine fragrance. Last year, as she was working on McGraw by Tim McGraw, Coty’s senior director of international fragrance development, Ruth Sutcliffe, recalled a demo fragrance she’d smelled back in 2005.
Jun 19, 2008 | 02:41 PM CDT
Survival, Love and Food: Cracking the “Perfume Code”
A new program pairs flavorists and perfumers to take fragrances beyond “just odor.” “It’s almost like a heartbeat,” says Firmenich fine fragrance perfumer Honorine Blanc, discussing the effects of adding subliminal food notes to fragrances. The Swiss company believes it has created a system—the FiFi-nominated Smell the Taste—that harnesses the craftsmanship of flavorists and the more abstract art of perfumers to create polysensorial scents that go beyond conventional food notes: the juiciness and crunch of apples, the bubbles in champagne.
May 14, 2008 | 04:07 PM CDT
Naturals: The Case for Natural Personal Care Standards
By: Jack Corley, Trilogy Fragrances Inc.
The growth in natural and organic personal care products has resulted in a need for logical, practical and achievable standards. Conventional wisdom would tell us that the name of a product and the ingredients used to make that product are meaningful and truthful as reflected on the product label. But the fact is labeling cosmetics often depends entirely on the manufacturer.
May 14, 2008 | 03:59 PM CDT
Book Excerpt: Understanding Fragrance Chemistry
By: Charles Sell
In an excerpt from his new book, Charles Sell delves into the forces driving organic chemical reactions in fragrances. Fragrance ingredients are organic chemicals (i.e., chemicals with structures based on carbon) and so their chemistry is part of organic chemistry. Chemical reactions basically occur when instability or imbalance exists in atoms, molecules or ions.