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Oct 20, 2008 | 01:12 PM CDT
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Perfumer Cecile Krakower discusses olfactive identity, the complexities of the development process and decoding fragrance vocabularies
Mane perfumer Cecile Krakower laughs when asked if she has an olfactive signature. “I’ve been told that all of my fragrances are very textural,” she says. “I find it funny that people can recognize [my scents.]” For example, she says, “I work on making [woody fragrances] so soft and silky that they feel like just another layer of skin.”
The New York-based French ex-patriot, whose portfolio includes Vertigo (Vertigo Parfums) and Yu (Mane), notes that her relationship to fragrances is less about analyzing each component material than it is about the textures and feelings they impart. “I like it when something is ‘plump.’ I’m very sensitive to that.” And though she strongly disliked fruity notes when she first entered the industry, she has steadily gained an appreciation for renditions of edible concepts such as pear—so much so that they are now part of her signature. “I like juicy scents—the ‘velvet’ feel of a peach, the fresh and watery texture of a litchi. Those sensations are amazing.”
Oct 20, 2008 | 01:08 PM CDT
By: Matthias Vey, IFRA
Examining IFRA’s new Quantitative Risk Assessment methodology
In 2005, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) introduced a new Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA) approach to restrict fragrance materials that have a potential to induce dermal sensitization. This new approach is a much more refined methodology for evaluating sensitizing fragrance materials, and so provides more precise guidance on use levels of materials depending on the situation and the product in which they are used. Ultimately, it will better protect the consumer from becoming sensitized to a specific fragrance ingredient.
Oct 20, 2008 | 12:47 PM CDT
By: Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
Exploring the role of fragrance in marketing and branding
Fragrances created for brands’ retail and other environments don’t have to be the olfactive equivalent of Muzak. Rather than blanket a space with a generic scent, perfumers, fragrance house experts and brand specialists are partnering to create innovative signature scents that transmit cues about brand personality, identity and position within the competitive landscape. In an age in which consumers are constantly bombarded with brand messages, scent presents an underutilized avenue for cutting through the noise.
At the recent ScentWorld conference in New York sponsored by the Scent Marketing Institute, a range of speakers—including perfumers, manufacturers, sensory scientists and branding experts—discussed scent’s role in branding and marketing. “We are responding to the explosive growth of scent marketing across a wide range of industries,” says the Institute’s founder Harald Vogt.
Oct 13, 2008 | 07:42 PM CDT
Customized fragrance training
Oct 13, 2008 | 05:12 PM CDT
Mintel explores the dramatic growth in natural functional fragrances
Sep 30, 2008 | 03:05 PM CDT
California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger has signed two bills into law that will give state regulators broad authority to identify, evaluate and, if necessary, ban potentially harmful industrial chemicals.
Sep 23, 2008 | 10:36 AM CDT
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has published a Q&A document which is intended for those companies who own notifications under Directive 67/548/EEC pertaining to Domestic Manufacturers and/or Importers.
Sep 23, 2008 | 09:28 AM CDT
Senator Hillary Rodham Clinton of New York has introduced legislation, S. 3502, the Children's Environmental Health and Safety Risk Reduction Act, to provide for the establishment of a task force to address the environmental health and safety risks posed to children.
Sep 22, 2008 | 02:44 PM CDT
Between bear and bull
Sep 12, 2008 | 02:33 PM CDT
By: Brian M. Lawrence
Lawrence discusses the composition of melissa or lemon balm oil from Slovak Republic, Cuba, Turkey, Greece and Serbia. In addition, he examines the composition of laurel leaf oil from Italy, Turkey and Spain.