Cedarwood stands out as a fundamental component of the perfumer’s palette. There are broad variations on this note, determined primarily by the wood’s genus and botanical family. Cedarwood oil Atlas (Cedrus atlantica) and Himalayan cedarwood oil (Cedrus deodara) are commonly known cedarwood materials from the family Pinaceae. This family also includes the raw material sources used in the high volume production of turpentine and its derivatives. The family Cupressaceae contains other common cedarwood oils, including Texas cedarwood (Juniperus mexicana) and cedarwood Virginia (Juniperus virginiana; CAS# 85085-41-2; EINECS 285-370-3). Cedarwood oil Virginia is used to a larger degree in its distilled or redistilled form directly in applications, while Texas cedarwood oil is more prized as a raw material for derivatives such as cedrol and methyl cedryl ketone.

Building Smart: a Formula for Success (pg. 20—4 pages)

What it takes to formulate successful flavors—from trend tracking to material selection to compounding to trials to the store shelf

“To me, the ideal flavor is one you can make with the fewest number of materials to get the desired result,” says IFF senior flavorist Dennis Kujawski.
This perspective is as true as it is deceptively simple, particularly in an age when project timelines and cost demands are shrinking even as new applications demand greater technical innovation and skill. “I equate making a flavor to painting a picture or creating a symphony,” says Kujawski. “You’re building something. There was a [time] when someone could simply blend a couple flavors together.” No more.
On a recent visit to IFF’s Dayton, New Jersey campus, P&F magazine received an inside look at how flavorists and flavor companies are creating successful flavors and meeting deadlines with a blend of skill and evolving technologies. Kujawski calls this process building smart. From selecting raw materials to compounding to trials to the store shelf, flavorists need to consider every detail and adjust according to the varied projects that come their way.

Fragrance Creation: Gardenia in Perfumery (pg. 28—5pages)
Arcadi Boix Camps, Auram Art & Perfume

The beginning of a career, discovery of new materials and creating the scent of gardenia

An Education in Raw Materials
At the time I was beginning my career, bureaucracy loomed over the horizon, though the hysteria of the time cannot compare to today. In the 1970s, perfumers could employ costus root oil, chenopodium oil, fig leaf absolute and Citralva (IFF)* without any problems. We could use real bergamot oil from Reggio, Calabria, Italy, and lavender oil from Barrême, France. Essentially, we could use all the ingredients we wished, which were included on the long list internally labelled le livre bleu, the blue book. We could use all the “allergens,” including farnesol, the characterizing constituent of magnolia flowers that is now is restricted as potentially harmful to human health (despite the fact that I smell this material every sunny day in June and July when the charming white magnolia flowers bloom on my terraces, and it has never made me sick).
The situation was better and different than today—although today we have many new chemicals that allow us a more nuanced perfumery. As Pete Seeger used to sing: “Where have all the flowers gone?”

Application Study: Ionic Liquids in Consumer Products (pg. 34—2 pages)
Paul Davey, Givaudan

The possible uses for ionic liquids in fragrances and household products

Ionic liquids are currently defined as materials composed entirely of ions (salts) that are liquid at room temperature. For the purposes of this work, room temperature is defined as less than 100°C. Note that molten sodium chloride is an ionic liquid (above its melting point of 801°C), whereas seawater is a solution of sodium chloride, not an ionic liquid (examples are shown in F-1).
The recent interest in ionic liquids has stemmed from their immeasurably low vapor pressure. Original publications called it zero, but Earle et al. have recently shown that some ionic liquids can be distilled, albeit at very low pressures. Thus their use as solvents for chemical reactions, replacing volatile organic solvents (VOCs) with their environmental problems, was an early area of investigation. Indeed most work published (and publications on ionic liquids continue to proliferate at a greater than exponential rate) has concentrated on their use as solvents. A search of the Chemical Abstracts Database suggests two reviews are published each week on some aspect of chemistry involving ionic liquids. Thus a review such as this can never be current!

Progress in Essential Oils (pg. 36—10 pages)
Brian M. Lawrence

Lawrence discusses the composition and chirality of native spearmint oil from Serbia, Guangzhou (China), United States and India. Additionally, he covers the composition of carvone-rich oils of Mentha spicata from India, Moldova, Senegal, Italy, Greece, Egypt, Hungary, Turkey, Iran, Cameroon, Spain, Reunion, Algeria and Sudan.

Organoleptic Characteristics of Flavor Materials (pg. 48—3 pages)
Gerard Mosciano

Materials evaluated: Citronellyl Tiglate (Bedoukian Research); cis-4-Decenol (Bedoukian Research); 2,5-Dimethyl-4-Methoxy-3(2H)-Furanone (Silesia Flavors); Ethiopian Berbere Spice Mix Oleoresin (Lionel Hitchen (Essential Oils) Ltd.); Ethyl cis-3 Hexenoate (Bedoukian Research); Farnesyl Acetate (Bedoukian Research); 2-Hydroxy Pipertone (Oxford Chemicals Ltd.); Limediene (Bedoukian Research); Lime Oil Tahitian 5 Fold (Lionel Hitchen (Essential Oils) Ltd.); Molasses Distillate (IFF); cis-3-Nonen-1-ol (Bedoukian Research); Phenyl Ethyl Butyrate (Fleurchem); Tridecanal (Bedoukian Research); Verbenone (Bedoukian Research)