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January 2008
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A Lie that Tells the Truth: Chandler Burr Peeks Behind the Curtain of the Fragrance Industry (pg 16)
Jeb Gleason-Allured, Editor
This is the book the fragrance industry will be talking about. The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York is author Chandler Burr’s alternately passionate, acid, affectionate and fascinating look at the fragrance world on both sides of the Atlantic. Describing it as “virulently insular” and “archaically secretive,” Burr concludes that, “The closest industry to perfume … is Hollywood.”
Viewpoint: Misconceptions Surrounding the Fragrance Industry (pg 22—3 pages)
Steve Tanner, Arylessence Inc.
The need to communicate the facts about fragrance quality, integrity and safety to consumersRecent assertions by consumer activists, environmental groups, anti-industry standard proponents and mainstream media are creating negative perceptions of fragrance that may have dire consequences for the fragrance industry. If facts about fragrance quality, integrity and safety are not widely shared and communicated, a very unpleasant image of the industry could prevail.
Topics in perfumery: Saffron in Perfumery and Flavors (pg 26—9 pages)
Arcadi Boix Camps, Auram Art & Perfume
A meditation on the art and science of flavor and fragrance creationMy friends often tell me that I do not look my age. Maybe they do it to please or flatter me, but may be it is true. I believe human beings have two ages, the chronological and the biological. There is a time when those ages are relatively close together, but the differences between them do grow over time. This I know, because I feel exactly as I did when I was 22 or 23 years old.
Let me tell you one secret that I have never told to anybody but my closest friends: Since the age of 18, I have started every morning with a glass of iced Spanish saffron infusion, which imparts a sensation of youth, energy and strength inside my body.
Not long ago, I thought to analyze saffron. It is well known that saffron contains: approximately 0.4-1.4% essential oil; yellow flavonoids that are derived from the diterpene, crocetin; bitter substances, including picrocrocin and safranal (one of the compounds that imparts the characteristic aroma of saffron); beta-hydroxycyclocitral; 2-butenoic-acid-lactone; carbohydrates; beta-carotene; gamma-carotene; cineole; copper; crocin 1-4 (disaccharide analogs of crocin, such as crocin-1 and crocin-2, are less potent than monosaccharide analogs of crocin, such as crocin-3 and crocin-4, in improving eyesight); crocose. The stigmas also contain: 8.5-16% water; 6-13% fixed oil; oleanolic-acid derivatives; oleic acid; 4.3-4.8% fibre; 12.6-13.6% protein; 12-13% starch; lauric acid; lycopene; manganese; 2.2-2.4% nitrogen; thiamine; xanthophylls; and zeaxanthin.
As a flavorist and perfumer, I of course wished to delve deeper into the 0.4-1.4% of essential oil.
Progress in Essential Oils (pg 38—9 pages)
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Brian M. Lawrence
Lawrence discusses the composition of Nigella sativa oil from Egypt, France, Algeria, Bulgaria, Morocco, Syria, Jordan, Iran and Ethiopia. Additionally, he covers the composition of coriander seed oil (Coriandrum sativum L.) from Germany, China, Algeria, Turkey and India. Finally, Lawrence explores the composition of cilantro oil from India, Canada and Fiji.
The Creative Flavorist:On Site (pg 48—2 pages)
Gerard Mosciano
Mosciano visits Riba Fairfield—a Company in TransitionRecently, I took a trip through the corn-covered flat lands of central Illinois to visit the town of Decatur, which is the home of a flavor ingredient manufacturer in transition—Riba Fairfield, Inc. Founded in 1991, Riba Fairfield is located in an industrial park that it shares with Caterpillar and Archer Daniels Midland (ADM).
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